Installing intercooler this weekend. I have a few ????
#1
I just bought a super chiller for a weiand 177 blower. The inter cooler was for a 525sc. I bought it used so I don't have any instructions. It don't look like it's difficult at all But I want to be sure.
1. There is a 1/2 wide cross bar that is casted in the plenum (sp?)of the intake manifold. It matches the one on the bottom of the blower where it mounts to the intake but the inter cooler dose not have one. I didn't know if this should be removed because it looks like it might disturb air flow between the intercooler and the intake.
2. I currently am running almost 5 psi of boost. With the intercooler do I need to change the pullie to a 7psi do to the drop in air pressure?????? Just to let you know I Have some custom made pistons that are 8.85:1 ( don't ask) The motor is pushing 545 Hp at 5400 @ 5 psi boost.
3. I also heard people cooling them in deferent ways. I know a friend has one and all he did was T off the intake line and went directly to the cooler. He has no problems at idle. ( his is a pro charger set up)
My machinist says I need a check valve in line to prevent water from passing threw at idle or else the air charge will be too cool and the boat might stall at idle. If that is the case where do I get this check valve???????
4. What kind of hp increase if any should I expect?????
1. There is a 1/2 wide cross bar that is casted in the plenum (sp?)of the intake manifold. It matches the one on the bottom of the blower where it mounts to the intake but the inter cooler dose not have one. I didn't know if this should be removed because it looks like it might disturb air flow between the intercooler and the intake.
2. I currently am running almost 5 psi of boost. With the intercooler do I need to change the pullie to a 7psi do to the drop in air pressure?????? Just to let you know I Have some custom made pistons that are 8.85:1 ( don't ask) The motor is pushing 545 Hp at 5400 @ 5 psi boost.
3. I also heard people cooling them in deferent ways. I know a friend has one and all he did was T off the intake line and went directly to the cooler. He has no problems at idle. ( his is a pro charger set up)
My machinist says I need a check valve in line to prevent water from passing threw at idle or else the air charge will be too cool and the boat might stall at idle. If that is the case where do I get this check valve???????
4. What kind of hp increase if any should I expect?????
#2
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,519
Likes: 31
Hot Boat
1) I would leave the bar in place just because it may be necessary for strength in the intake manifold. That part of the intercooler is may be shrouded on top by the bar on the blower anyway.
2) You have to change the pulley to make more power. You could do this without an intercooler if you had very high octane fuel. The intercooler allows you to do it with premium fuel.
3) Since you are adding fuel before the blower and intercooler, having cold water running through the intercooler at idle can cause fuel to condense and puddle in the intake manifold. This is not a problem for your Procharger friend. Some people run a separate water pickup which will only feed water at speed to eliminate this problem. You could tee off the intake line after the sea water pump with a check valve of whatever pressure (5psi?) that would prevent flow to the intercooler at idle. Either way I think you would want to run for a few minutes on plane to make sure the intercooler was cooled right down before going to full throttle. Sitting between an engine and a blower without water flow is going to make the intercooler hot.
4) The HP increase is due to the pulley change, I would guess 75 HP. Superchiller claims about 100 HP extra with the 9 psi pulley.
You are also going to need a longer belt.
1) I would leave the bar in place just because it may be necessary for strength in the intake manifold. That part of the intercooler is may be shrouded on top by the bar on the blower anyway.
2) You have to change the pulley to make more power. You could do this without an intercooler if you had very high octane fuel. The intercooler allows you to do it with premium fuel.
3) Since you are adding fuel before the blower and intercooler, having cold water running through the intercooler at idle can cause fuel to condense and puddle in the intake manifold. This is not a problem for your Procharger friend. Some people run a separate water pickup which will only feed water at speed to eliminate this problem. You could tee off the intake line after the sea water pump with a check valve of whatever pressure (5psi?) that would prevent flow to the intercooler at idle. Either way I think you would want to run for a few minutes on plane to make sure the intercooler was cooled right down before going to full throttle. Sitting between an engine and a blower without water flow is going to make the intercooler hot.
4) The HP increase is due to the pulley change, I would guess 75 HP. Superchiller claims about 100 HP extra with the 9 psi pulley.
You are also going to need a longer belt.
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hot Boat man,
I'll try & help you out from my 5 yr racing blower motors. We run water from a separate water pick up on back of boat, water in one end & out the other of the chiller dumped out the side of boat.
In this way water only flowed when we moved so puddling was not a problem at stand still. Must be flushed if you go in salt water
A boost gauge for blower pressure will eliminate all guessing, run it before you install inner cooler & run it after installed, if it drops then you can adjust it back up with your pulleys. I agree with Tomcats hp gains with inner cooler. Another little trick is the bigger the blower the slower you have to turn it to get the same boost as a little one, the slower you turn it the less hp taken up by driving it.
Your 8.85 to one seems to high for pleasure boat, we ran full race & things were this, 498 cu in 8.9 to one 16lb boost with116 octane gave 1175 hp & 1060 ft lb torque, I would have thought you would be around 7 to one because you can always boost it up if needed. There is no substitute for doing it right, it's pay me now or pay for it latter. Hope this helps a little, Joe.
I'll try & help you out from my 5 yr racing blower motors. We run water from a separate water pick up on back of boat, water in one end & out the other of the chiller dumped out the side of boat.
In this way water only flowed when we moved so puddling was not a problem at stand still. Must be flushed if you go in salt water
A boost gauge for blower pressure will eliminate all guessing, run it before you install inner cooler & run it after installed, if it drops then you can adjust it back up with your pulleys. I agree with Tomcats hp gains with inner cooler. Another little trick is the bigger the blower the slower you have to turn it to get the same boost as a little one, the slower you turn it the less hp taken up by driving it.
Your 8.85 to one seems to high for pleasure boat, we ran full race & things were this, 498 cu in 8.9 to one 16lb boost with116 octane gave 1175 hp & 1060 ft lb torque, I would have thought you would be around 7 to one because you can always boost it up if needed. There is no substitute for doing it right, it's pay me now or pay for it latter. Hope this helps a little, Joe.
#6
Hot Boat, I`ve got 671`s with Superchillers in my Top Gun. I had the coolers plumbed from the water crossover to the intercooler and dumping out the transom. With out the check valve, it idled horribly.At idle, the rear cyls were excessivle rich, soaking wet plugs and the front cyls were lean. You can get adjustable check valves direct from Superchiller. I have mine threaded into the crossover(1/2"pipe thread) adjust them so that there is no flow until 3500 or so (they open as block pressure increases)There is a day and night difference in driveability. My boat can idle all day, no wake zones are not a problem now.
Kurt.
Kurt.





