recomendation for fuel pump
03-08-2018 | 04:01 PM
#4
Platinum Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 5,769
Likes: 150
From: tn
Something like an Aeromotive with an external bypass regulator with boost indexing.
Be aware, though, that a positive displacement fuel pump will warm up your fuel tank on a long cruise. For that reason, I like the idea of running 2 fuel pumps in parallel. A smaller low current pump that is adequate for your usual cruise speed, and another larger one to kick in when you exceed that one's capabilities. The reason is that an A1000 pump will pull up to 20 amps of current, which it converts into motion and heat. The fuel picks up heat when it passes thru the pump, then the regulator returns it to the tank where it heats the remaining fuel, and then gets run back thru the pump again and again.
A single A1000 is also bare minimum for a 1000+ forced induction application running 35-50psi of fuel pressure.
Using something like the Aeromotive "small" inline pump only takes 9 amps to run. At 2,400 rpm, your 1,000 hp motor is making less than the 375hp that pump will supply. So, you can idle around on a low-draw pump, you can cruise for long stretches at a good clip, still using the smaller pump (and be barely returning fuel back to the tank, effectively eliminating any fuel tank heat problems). When you push past that (via a switch on the throttle linkage), the big pump turns on and makes sure you don't run out of fuel. The combo will support 1300 EFI forced induction HP and you always have a backup pump in case one takes a dump. **(this setup is with the pumps in PARALLEL with 1-way valves). Depending on your installation, putting the regulator on the END of the last fuel rail may give better fuel rail pressure consistency..
If you choose to use a ONE-pump scenario, then it is a good idea to use a variable speed pump controller, although be careful, some of those have been known to shorten pump life (get a pulsed unit rather than a voltage-drop unit).
Finally, be aware that using the LARGEST injectors that still meter cleanly at low speeds allows you to run lower rail pressures than you do when maxing out smaller injectors at higher pressures and longer duty cycles.. The higher the rail pressure is, the lower HP capability your pump has. That's why a carb NA rating on a pump may be 1400hp while the same pump's FI/Supercharged rating is only 1000hp.
A NA carb motor requires 6 psi.
A FI motor requires around 40-45 psi.
A supercharged motor usually raises the rail pressure with boost, so a FI supercharged motor running 15 pounds of boost will require up to 60 psi.
Running that same boosted motor with BIG high flow injectors may allow you to drop the rail pressure to 30 (at low boost) and 45 (at 15 pounds of boost).
MC
Be aware, though, that a positive displacement fuel pump will warm up your fuel tank on a long cruise. For that reason, I like the idea of running 2 fuel pumps in parallel. A smaller low current pump that is adequate for your usual cruise speed, and another larger one to kick in when you exceed that one's capabilities. The reason is that an A1000 pump will pull up to 20 amps of current, which it converts into motion and heat. The fuel picks up heat when it passes thru the pump, then the regulator returns it to the tank where it heats the remaining fuel, and then gets run back thru the pump again and again.
A single A1000 is also bare minimum for a 1000+ forced induction application running 35-50psi of fuel pressure.
Using something like the Aeromotive "small" inline pump only takes 9 amps to run. At 2,400 rpm, your 1,000 hp motor is making less than the 375hp that pump will supply. So, you can idle around on a low-draw pump, you can cruise for long stretches at a good clip, still using the smaller pump (and be barely returning fuel back to the tank, effectively eliminating any fuel tank heat problems). When you push past that (via a switch on the throttle linkage), the big pump turns on and makes sure you don't run out of fuel. The combo will support 1300 EFI forced induction HP and you always have a backup pump in case one takes a dump. **(this setup is with the pumps in PARALLEL with 1-way valves). Depending on your installation, putting the regulator on the END of the last fuel rail may give better fuel rail pressure consistency..
If you choose to use a ONE-pump scenario, then it is a good idea to use a variable speed pump controller, although be careful, some of those have been known to shorten pump life (get a pulsed unit rather than a voltage-drop unit).
Finally, be aware that using the LARGEST injectors that still meter cleanly at low speeds allows you to run lower rail pressures than you do when maxing out smaller injectors at higher pressures and longer duty cycles.. The higher the rail pressure is, the lower HP capability your pump has. That's why a carb NA rating on a pump may be 1400hp while the same pump's FI/Supercharged rating is only 1000hp.
A NA carb motor requires 6 psi.
A FI motor requires around 40-45 psi.
A supercharged motor usually raises the rail pressure with boost, so a FI supercharged motor running 15 pounds of boost will require up to 60 psi.
Running that same boosted motor with BIG high flow injectors may allow you to drop the rail pressure to 30 (at low boost) and 45 (at 15 pounds of boost).
MC
03-08-2018 | 04:39 PM
#5
Registered
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,696
Likes: 93
From: Pa
Sometimes the fuel will atomize better if it's warm, sometimes the secondary fuel pump dies and you don't know until it's to late, sometimes the properly sized fuel pump circulating the fuel through a tank sitting in cold water doesn't change the temperature at all. It all depends on how much you want to spend on the set up and how you're going to use it.
