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-   -   HP rating for stock GM main bolts (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/353180-hp-rating-stock-gm-main-bolts.html)

Young Performance 04-05-2018 10:00 AM


Originally Posted by Mohavvalley (Post 4619890)
Thanks Eddie, always great information with facts/data to back it up, not just opinions with no information.

As always it's a fine balance between building for now and "might as well" for the future and having more data helps make those decisions be educated ones.

if I ARP stud the caps with the GM forged crank what kind of HP will it hold up to for extended runs (10 min plus) around 5,600-5,800 RPM?

Thanks

Personally, I would cap it around 850. Certainly no more than 900 hp.
Eddie

mike tkach 04-05-2018 10:30 PM

the bolts will be all you need BUT the gen 5 block is weak in the main saddle area.i have seen more than one that expired with less than 800 hp.

Mohavvalley 04-06-2018 12:16 PM


Originally Posted by mike tkach (Post 4620083)
the bolts will be all you need BUT the gen 5 block is weak in the main saddle area.i have seen more than one that expired with less than 800 hp.


If I put higher torque studs instead of bolts in this gen 5 block, would that make it more likely to come apart due to the added stresses?

getrdunn 04-06-2018 08:12 PM


Originally Posted by mike tkach (Post 4620083)
the bolts will be all you need BUT the gen 5 block is weak in the main saddle area.i have seen more than one that expired with less than 800 hp.

I've been doing a little reading lately on the different hp ratings with all the different GM and aftermarket blocks. GM performance pretty decent in comparison to std. Seems like new std GM block rated for 800 hp max. Just never know. Some get lucky and some pay the ultimate sacrifice and price.

getrdunn 04-06-2018 08:25 PM


Originally Posted by Mohavvalley (Post 4619758)
Well my hoes have 420 hours on them and have been apart at least 3 times ( possibally more), keep or change for future 800-900 horse?

P.S. I'm talking about the main bolts not the rod bolts, I'm well aware of the need for better rods at higher HP

for what your doing now I'd say you'd be fine although ARP's are like 85.00. As another mentioned If you go after that 800-900+ hp down the road you'll be starting from close to scratch and can replace then also. I've pushed engines to the extreme however with sense for the most part. Engines with over 800/900 hours and rebuilds in btwn and yet to brake a GM main bolt. Hope that helps.

getrdunn 04-06-2018 08:38 PM


Originally Posted by Baja Rooster (Post 4619764)
Was there a power difference? I’ve seen a video of how much a rocker stud flexes and it’s a bit unnerving.lol.

Those are kinda neat to watch most definately can appreciate a well planned out valvetrain. Often over looked. My head guy watched one on the dyno through one of those valve covers with a less expensive version of shaft rockers and literally saw them starting to dismantle. Luckily he got to the dyno operator to shut it down before any damage. Just another example of buying good brand name quality parts weather it be shaft mount or stud mount rockers/girdles. List goes on with pushrods, lifters etc. Very difficult to cut corners. Marine engines especially.

Mohavvalley 04-10-2018 06:22 AM

Excellent write up/article here on main caps, 2 bolt, 4 bolt, splayed, indexing, and studs with pictures.
( Some of it is on small block, some on big block)

splayed main caps Grumpys Performance Garage





MILD THUNDER 04-10-2018 08:13 AM

I also think rpm plays a big factor in what a bottom end can tolerate. The forces from the big heavy pistons, rods, counterweights, , gets worse as rpms increase. Id prob feel better about a supercharged deal making 750hp at 5500rpm, than a NA deal making 750hp at 7500rpm.


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