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Mohavvalley 04-04-2018 10:52 AM

HP rating for stock GM main bolts
 
I searched but couldn't find anything so...

What's the max suggested HP range for stock GM main cap bolts in a gen 5 454?
-Running stock forged GM 4" crank, 4 bolt main, 8.5:1 with 5-6 lbs boost, 6,000 RPM.

MILD THUNDER 04-04-2018 11:31 AM

Youll be fine with the stock bolts. They can handle alot more power and rpm than youll be running.

Mohavvalley 04-04-2018 11:43 AM

Thanks MT.. But I'm looking to know what I can run these to as I'm building the bottom end for future expansion, I picked up a 6-71 for cheap that will most likely be going on a few years down the road when I get it running and upgrade the drive.

So what is a comfortable HP & RPM range for stock GM bolts given the above set up...700..800..900..1,000hp?

6,500RPM max at XXX HP ?

Or to put it another way at what horse power & RPM should I replace the stock main cap bolts with ARP 8740's

Thanks

Baja Rooster 04-04-2018 01:01 PM

A slight threadjack here. What rpm ceiling would you use before needing stud girdles?

Mohavvalley 04-04-2018 01:28 PM


Originally Posted by Baja Rooster (Post 4619739)
A slight threadjack here. What rpm ceiling would you use before needing stud girdles?

Not at all, I'm interested in this too?

​​​​​​

getrdunn 04-04-2018 01:29 PM

Don't under estimate GM cap bolts. If it makes you feel better then replace with arp (cheap) however I'd be more concerned with a professional balance on your rotating assembly. GM forged 4 bolt forged assemblies are pretty tough. Good aftermarket rods with arp bolts is also extra insurance however. I've only broke one 7/16 GM rod cap and it broke near the bolt. (Weak point) If your planning for future 1,000 hp then you might as well spend the money now. Spend the $2,000 or so now on rods and balance. With that said though I've ran 800 plus with stock GM rotating assemblies however not with extending runs. Achieving a reliable 800-1,000 hp is what's gonna get costly. I think everyone would agree with that. For your current 6-71 I wouldn't stress much over it. We've run 420 mb on stock GM forged 454's with 6 pds of boost with zero problems. Just my personal experience and opinion of course.

getrdunn 04-04-2018 01:50 PM

Consider a torqued bolt like a street ho. The more they get torqued and stretched it's time to replace with a new one however first few rodeos doesn't mean their worn out. Lol... just my .02

Mohavvalley 04-04-2018 01:55 PM


Originally Posted by getrdunn (Post 4619756)
Consider a torqued bolt like a street ho. The more they get torqued and stretched it's time to replace with a new one however first few rodeos doesn't mean their worn out. Lol... just my .02

Well my hoes have 420 hours on them and have been apart at least 3 times ( possibally more), keep or change for future 800-900 horse?

P.S. I'm talking about the main bolts not the rod bolts, I'm well aware of the need for better rods at higher HP

F-2 Speedy 04-04-2018 02:00 PM

Id put stud girdles on anything over 550hp, but that me, you cant tell me there's no deflection in the stud at 5500 on a non girdled engine, Brad Smith told me a story of a SBC he did a dyno test on non girdle vs adding them, he told me if he hadn't seen it for him self he wouldn't believe it.

Baja Rooster 04-04-2018 02:22 PM


Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy (Post 4619759)
Id put stud girdles on anything over 550hp, but that me, you cant tell me there's no deflection in the stud at 5500 on a non girdled engine, Brad Smith told me a story of a SBC he did a dyno test on non girdle vs adding them, he told me if he hadn't seen it for him self he wouldn't believe it.

Was there a power difference? I’ve seen a video of how much a rocker stud flexes and it’s a bit unnerving.lol.


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