Steam in exhaust - Whippled 502
10-23-2002 | 05:12 PM
#11
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From: SLC, Utah
Originally posted by Bigwavz
Steam is not a problem. Just keep an eye on it like you should anyways.
How much speed did you gain with the Whipple? I am installing one for a friend and he keeps asking how much faster will I go?
I have one on mine but it is a carbed 454 and a 24 footer. His is a 502 EFI in a 26 footer.
Is yours a cat or deep v??
Steam is not a problem. Just keep an eye on it like you should anyways.
How much speed did you gain with the Whipple? I am installing one for a friend and he keeps asking how much faster will I go?
I have one on mine but it is a carbed 454 and a 24 footer. His is a 502 EFI in a 26 footer.
Is yours a cat or deep v??
10-23-2002 | 06:58 PM
#13
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I started getting a lot of steam once my seawater pump impleller started going bad. The temp gauge was not showing high temps either. The impeller is easy to change.
You can also get more steam once your exhaust riser gaskets start to go. This can be VERY bad if you have stock exhaust w/o a dry joint.
You can also get more steam once your exhaust riser gaskets start to go. This can be VERY bad if you have stock exhaust w/o a dry joint.
10-23-2002 | 10:24 PM
#14
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From: SLC, Utah
Originally posted by SteveDavid
Scott,
Steam can come from a couple of areas.
#1. If you're running a fairly high X dimension and aerating the props resulting in cavitation around the pick up area
#2. If your water pump is impeller driven and there is either an air leak before the pump or an impeller going away. (some times if you're running strainers, the lid may be on cockeyed or the o ring may not have seated which would cause an air leak.)
#3. Head gasket going away introducing compression in the water flow or water flow into the combustion chamber
#4. You could experience water reversion, but generally you're not going to do that very often until you "puke" and internal part, such as hydraulic a connecting rod, breaking a crankshaft bending valves, etc.
Hope this helps.
Scott,
Steam can come from a couple of areas.
#1. If you're running a fairly high X dimension and aerating the props resulting in cavitation around the pick up area
#2. If your water pump is impeller driven and there is either an air leak before the pump or an impeller going away. (some times if you're running strainers, the lid may be on cockeyed or the o ring may not have seated which would cause an air leak.)
#3. Head gasket going away introducing compression in the water flow or water flow into the combustion chamber
#4. You could experience water reversion, but generally you're not going to do that very often until you "puke" and internal part, such as hydraulic a connecting rod, breaking a crankshaft bending valves, etc.
Hope this helps.
10-23-2002 | 10:40 PM
#15
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From: SLC, Utah
SteveDavid,
Thanks for the reply. My intercooler dumps out the stern onto my drive, I plan to plumb it into my watercooled billet cap just haven't got around to it yet. I did check the water stream when on plane and did not notice any steam. I am not running a water pressure gauge but suspect the pressure may be a bit on the high side with the bravo low water pick up.
I've been considering having the heads pulled any way to change the gaskets as I know they are the weak link in my set up. As long as I have the heads off I may as well get some valve work done, and then maybe some porting and polishing, and hey while I'm at it a new cam, maybe I should just do some nice Merlin heads, on second thought maybe I'll just pull the motor and swap it with a nice Teague, Pfaff, or Eickert
I should probably just winterize her and padlock my wallet as I'm in the middle of building a new house (garage!!!!) and the sundeck ornament wants granite kitchen slabs, and travertine bathrooms with $1000.00 vanity lights
The things we agree to to get new garages for our toys.
Thanks for the reply. My intercooler dumps out the stern onto my drive, I plan to plumb it into my watercooled billet cap just haven't got around to it yet. I did check the water stream when on plane and did not notice any steam. I am not running a water pressure gauge but suspect the pressure may be a bit on the high side with the bravo low water pick up.
I've been considering having the heads pulled any way to change the gaskets as I know they are the weak link in my set up. As long as I have the heads off I may as well get some valve work done, and then maybe some porting and polishing, and hey while I'm at it a new cam, maybe I should just do some nice Merlin heads, on second thought maybe I'll just pull the motor and swap it with a nice Teague, Pfaff, or Eickert
I should probably just winterize her and padlock my wallet as I'm in the middle of building a new house (garage!!!!) and the sundeck ornament wants granite kitchen slabs, and travertine bathrooms with $1000.00 vanity lights
The things we agree to to get new garages for our toys.
10-24-2002 | 04:49 PM
#16
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 660
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From: Lighthouse Point & Ocean Reef FL
Kokopelli,
I can't stop laughing at your "Sun Deck" ornament and what we do to keep our boating going by keeping them happy!
As to your wallet, yep, lock it up, put the boat away for the winter and enjoy tons of trouble free hours next summer. I run low water pick ups as well and run between 18 to 24 lbs. of water pressure. Each outdrive feeds the conventional water pump which then circulates thru the intercooler and the engine. I've not had a steam problem.
The reason a high X dimension may lead to a steam problem, is the possibility of aeration near the pick up on your lower unit bullet. Chances are because you're running a Vee bottom the pick up is still below the running surface or near parallell to it and thus getting clean water. It may not in fact appear paralell using a straight edge, but as the water flows from the transom bottom to the lower unit it's level. On a notch transom or set back/stand off box as the water departs the running surface it makes an immediate upward path.
Back to the steam, if you're getting air then water, air then water that pulsing will create hot spots which in turn can create steam pockets. In various testing scenarios we've used clear lines and pressure readings throughout the system to determine drop off rates, water flow and volume in the cirulating lines.
My boat has a step bottom, with a notch transom, standoff boxes (which are part of the hull mold) and a keel pad. The CL of the drive bullets are physically at the mid point heightwise between the notch bottom and the standoff bottom.
Have fun this winter, avoid if at all possible the temptation to increase HP. I dont' know the formula, but we could probably figure out a ratio of increased HP to increased operating expenses to increased repair costs. Now factor in "her" realizing what you spent, and well, it just isn't pretty
Take care
I can't stop laughing at your "Sun Deck" ornament and what we do to keep our boating going by keeping them happy!
As to your wallet, yep, lock it up, put the boat away for the winter and enjoy tons of trouble free hours next summer. I run low water pick ups as well and run between 18 to 24 lbs. of water pressure. Each outdrive feeds the conventional water pump which then circulates thru the intercooler and the engine. I've not had a steam problem.
The reason a high X dimension may lead to a steam problem, is the possibility of aeration near the pick up on your lower unit bullet. Chances are because you're running a Vee bottom the pick up is still below the running surface or near parallell to it and thus getting clean water. It may not in fact appear paralell using a straight edge, but as the water flows from the transom bottom to the lower unit it's level. On a notch transom or set back/stand off box as the water departs the running surface it makes an immediate upward path.
Back to the steam, if you're getting air then water, air then water that pulsing will create hot spots which in turn can create steam pockets. In various testing scenarios we've used clear lines and pressure readings throughout the system to determine drop off rates, water flow and volume in the cirulating lines.
My boat has a step bottom, with a notch transom, standoff boxes (which are part of the hull mold) and a keel pad. The CL of the drive bullets are physically at the mid point heightwise between the notch bottom and the standoff bottom.
Have fun this winter, avoid if at all possible the temptation to increase HP. I dont' know the formula, but we could probably figure out a ratio of increased HP to increased operating expenses to increased repair costs. Now factor in "her" realizing what you spent, and well, it just isn't pretty
Take care
