Go Back  Offshoreonly.com > Technical > General Q & A
Old bravo 1 help >

Old bravo 1 help

Notices

Old bravo 1 help

Thread Tools
 
Old 05-27-2018, 06:08 PM
  #1  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Old bravo 1 help

Here's my problem....I have a '89 Warlock World Class 28' with twin 525SC's The boat still (somehow) has the stock Bravo1s and I know the drives are on borrowed time, I drive it like a boat like this should be driven, but with respect to the fact the drives have (again SOMEHOW over 1200hrs.) on them. So, my question is, can I, when the time comes swap a pair of Bravo X's on to my original gimbal housing's? I have searched, and searched, but not found a answer to this. I do know about the oil reservoirs, that I don't have, but am unsure if I can install one, or need to replace the bell housing to make this all work.
Warlock23 is offline  
Old 05-28-2018, 06:16 AM
  #2  
Registered
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Lake George NY
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Check to see what gimbal bearing you have. X, XR use the newer style which fits all. older X XR gimbal bearing have red dot. Look up gimbal bearing on here there have been many post about differences to fit larger u joints of X&XR
Clustergear is offline  
Old 05-28-2018, 01:49 PM
  #3  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I knew about the bearings,I installed a new one last season. And the drive will bolt right on, but, since I don't have anywhere to put a drive lube bottle on my current gimbal, do I plug the fitting in the new upper, or is there another way I'm not seeing?
Warlock23 is offline  
Old 05-28-2018, 04:01 PM
  #4  
Registered
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: KY
Posts: 4,102
Received 471 Likes on 367 Posts
Default

IMO, the boat only weights about 4500 dry, so having regular B1's behind 525's is not an issue. If it weighted 7 or 8K then there might be something to think about. Just like putting a 383 stroker on a Alpha one 18 footer. No issue there either with the boat only weighting in around 3500. Not the HP that will break/wear things its the torque
AllDodge is offline  
Old 05-28-2018, 07:46 PM
  #5  
Charter Member #394
Charter Member
iTrader: (1)
 
SFOcean's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: CA
Posts: 533
Received 36 Likes on 17 Posts
Default



This is a very low serial number 1988 1.5 drive (one of the first Bravo 1 drives), so it had the dipstick in the top cap. You can see the stainless line comming from the top cap through the transom to the bottle inside. The bottle needs to be big as the drive is completely full of oil which helps the top bearing live. I drilled and tapped my somewhat newer 1.36 drive's cap also.

Last edited by SFOcean; 05-28-2018 at 07:50 PM.
SFOcean is offline  
Old 05-28-2018, 08:02 PM
  #6  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I was looking at the kit to add the bottle externally, looks like that's the way to go. For the record I hope AllDodge is right. My last boat was a 23' World Class (Hence my screen name) with a 365hp 454 mag/Alpha drive. It lived for about 6 years, then I swapped it for a Bravo which broke after 2 hours of use. Right after I got it back running again, I found this boat, and wound up in the same spot with a overpowered drive again. Thank you for the feedback/ideas, always appreciated.
Warlock23 is offline  
Old 05-29-2018, 12:48 AM
  #7  
Charter Member #394
Charter Member
iTrader: (1)
 
SFOcean's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: CA
Posts: 533
Received 36 Likes on 17 Posts
Default

I believe AllDodge is correct. Also the older Bravo gears were made of better material. Big change after 2005 or so.
SFOcean is offline  
Old 05-29-2018, 03:41 PM
  #8  
Registered
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I don't think you are over powered at all...I have the same setup with warmed 525sc's and haven't had any issues - I even run 5 blades which is a "no,no". Change drive fluid every 25-30hrs and no signs of issues,
MINK is offline  
Old 05-30-2018, 10:10 PM
  #9  
Registered
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 198
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by MINK
I don't think you are over powered at all...I have the same setup with warmed 525sc's and haven't had any issues - I even run 5 blades which is a "no,no". Change drive fluid every 25-30hrs and no signs of issues,
I'm rebuilding a 1994 27' worldclass and I'm warming up the 525sc with hydrullic roller and EQ320 heads, I'm shooting for 600 to maybe 625HP but I have the original bravo 1 that has 420 hours on it and I'm debating on what I need to do to make sure it's good to go? I'm running a bravo 1 -4 blade 26p, if that makes a difference.

Have you rebuilt your bravo with new seals and bearings to make it last?

​​​​​​I'm thinking about doing that vs just changing the fluid and hoping it stays together, any recomendations?

Thanks
Mohavvalley is offline  
Old 05-31-2018, 01:45 PM
  #10  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

If your not having drive problems, I would leave it alone. Some how, my drives have never been opened up! I change the drive oil every 10-15 hours because I'm paranoid about it, this boat has had the 525's since '96, before that they were just 330's. And total the drives have around 1200 hours on them. Just be easy on the throttle out of the hole..
Warlock23 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.