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Wide water temperature swings at idle?

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Old 07-13-2018 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Panther
Had a similar problem and it turned out to be a brand new Hardin marine crossover had a casting flaw and the hole inside the crossover was only about 3/8" as opposed to 1" ID it's supposed to be. They replaced it and sent a new one...engine is cold now....
funny you say that, buddy at marina had same exact issue with a thermostat housing from GLM. Crap casting turned out to be restricting flow.
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Old 07-13-2018 | 01:32 PM
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I would not buy GLM products. One is very hard for warranty claims --- 2 is GLM = GOOD LUCK MARINE - that is the industry standard for GLM products among marine industry persons.

Have ask was it ever determine what the OP exact set up and parts used here ? Very hard to pin point any correct answers without knowing. We all can throw darts without knowing exactly the set up and parts.
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Old 07-13-2018 | 01:47 PM
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The setup is as follows:
Hardin stainless crossover and thermostat housing, no thermostat, restrictor plate with 1/2" hole instead of thermostat.
Stainless headers (CMI, I think?).



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Old 07-13-2018 | 07:21 PM
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All your water is bypassing the engine going through the bypass. I had to add a flow restrictor to mine. I 3D printed some restrictors and then I drill them out a little bit to achieve proprer pressure. A piece of stainless round stock with a 1/4" whole worked on my last setup. I put them right before the thermostat housing (arrow pointing) and drill them out with a cordless drill on the water. This is the setup on my new engines this year. I also have them in the back of my intakes that feed water to my exhaust. I have about 2-3 psi at idle and 20 psi at top RPM.






Last edited by Rookie; 07-13-2018 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 07-13-2018 | 09:24 PM
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Also, I'd install a couple high flow 140° thermostats with a couple holes in them.
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Old 07-13-2018 | 09:29 PM
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the water will always follow the path with the least amount of resistance.it is easier to go through the bypass than through the block,espically the reducing washer in the t stat housing.
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Old 07-20-2018 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Rookie
All your water is bypassing the engine going through the bypass. I had to add a flow restrictor to mine. I 3D printed some restrictors and then I drill them out a little bit to achieve proprer pressure. A piece of stainless round stock with a 1/4" whole worked on my last setup. I put them right before the thermostat housing (arrow pointing) and drill them out with a cordless drill on the water. This is the setup on my new engines this year. I also have them in the back of my intakes that feed water to my exhaust. I have about 2-3 psi at idle and 20 psi at top RPM.

Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try and report back.
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Old 07-26-2018 | 08:49 PM
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Update: I installed restrictors in the crossover bypass hoses. This brought the effective diameter down from approximately 3/4" to 1/2". On a test run today, I saw NO wild fluctuations of water temperature. At idle the temps are 125-130, and when running at 3500-4000 rpm for a few minutes the temps were 150-160 (oil temps 210-220).
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Old 07-29-2018 | 04:40 PM
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Update.

Ran the boat a few times this weekend. I am seeing water temps higher than previously reported. I saw 180-185 on one motor, with oil temp of 220. Other motor had water temp of 160-165, with oil temp of 200. This was running at 4200-4400 rpm. So I am not sure if these restrictors are the right way to go?
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Old 07-29-2018 | 07:00 PM
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What is you water pressure at speed? And where is it taking the pressure at? Cooler, block, intake manifold?
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