Found the problem. This breaker has no continuity. I can jump it and both actuators work. I have ordered a new one but will be a week or so till it comes in. Anyone got any ideas how I can jump the wires and keep them protected? Thinking of a 10 amp fuse and rigging it up. Anyone got a better idea?

Yes,get a ATO 10 amp fuse holder & crimp it inline,gtg.

Well that didn't work. Put a 15 amp fuse in it and it blew. Put a 20 amp fuse in it and it held for about 30 seconds and blew again. I'm thinking there is something with the thermal fuse that will allow it to operate without tripping it because its based on heat and not amperage. Does anybody know? Everything works now it just keeps blowing a fuse. How can I find out if it's pulling more amps than needed...what could cause it?

Think of the switching as 2 stages. The first stage allows max current to pull in the solenoids, once pulled in the current is reduced to keep them held. Your control is either not shifting to low setting, or the solenoids are drawing to much current. Since the wire was cut, my guess is the solenoids where blowing things so it was disconnected. The easy fix (thou costly) would be to get a new 3 wire harness and solenoids from Corsa

I Id get an inline amp gauge and wire it in series at the breaker and watch how many amps it pulls and holds. It could be the diverter plates themselves are binding and causing the high load.pull the assemblies off the manifold and see if your amp load goes down? Move the diverters manually and see if they're binding.

I have moved the diverters by hand and they are not binding. in fact as the engine is running I can hear them flapping as each cylinder fires off. If this is a two stage type system is there a way to test to see if the other stage is working? I have only tried this while the boat is NOT running. Maybe starting the boat to test it will give more voltage thus lowering the amperage. I did find some corrosion on the relays so I will clean that up to see if it helps. I do have a DC amp clamp i can test with but Alldodge you might be right on it being cut because it was blowing things but since it has its own wiring straight to the battery i dont see why that would be a problem. I dont see any melted wired. None of them were hot . When jumped it engages both actuators nicely with no wires heating up.

Engine running or not the differential amp pull is negligible. Like many other motor driven or in this case solenoid driven set ups the relays are turned on to do the major amp load instead of a switch. There are a lot of different quality relays out there. What I have seen in the past especially with wet or humid environments is the relay plugs get corroded & cause issues. The other issue is the relays internal silver tips get corroded causing intermittent operation & or higher amp draw because of burnt contactor tips.
I have not trouble shot this system but as said above applies across the board..

All I can tell you is I had the 4 wire system and similar things started happening, but mostly it would not fully pull in. Contacted Corsa and discussed (real friendly folks) on the phone. Decided to buy a new 3 wiring harness with solenoids. Worked fine until I removed them during my repower. Make it easy just call Corsa

I called Corsa and they suggested replacing the relays as one may not be working. Told me i could get them at Autozone and they sent me some oring the mail for free. There is a small water leak at the flange. Really good guys over there. Nice to see they will stand behind their product that long.

for future reference what was the part number of the relay they gave you?
they have sent me the o-rings a couple of times, have always been impressed with their customer service