New 12v Horn Won't Sound
08-21-2018 | 08:25 AM
#14
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From: Atlantic Southeast
Tested the Contura 2 switch and it's good. There's only 2 wires going to it, power in and power out to the horn. I unplugged them from the switch and touched together. I get the same result from the horn. Next up is running a horn power wire from the helm to the horn and touching to the helm supply power to it and seeing what it nets. If it doesn't sound, it's gotta be the ground which will be tons of fun.
Keith
Keith
08-21-2018 | 08:42 AM
#15
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From: 29°50'49.74"N 95° 5'17.55"W.......TEXAS
Sounds like the new horn has a greater current draw, you should use a relay and pull power from your amp wiring or similar, even if you get it to work with bigger wiring the switch probably wont last
08-21-2018 | 09:48 AM
#16
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From: Atlantic Southeast
The draw is 3.5 Amps as posted above. The switch is rated at 20 amps. Where are power to switches typically pulled from in the helm? That would require modifying source to the battery?
Keith
Keith
08-21-2018 | 10:27 AM
#17
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From: 29°50'49.74"N 95° 5'17.55"W.......TEXAS
Typically the helm power comes directly from a distribution block that is fed from the batteries. On many boats the gauge of that wire is barely enough to get the job done with the stock components blowers etc.. If you have a one wire alternator then you will not see the designed voltage at the dash. Marine alternators have remote voltage sensing in order to compensate for the distance. Assuming it is as designed you should first try supplying a temporary new ground direct from the battery or ground block, then try running power from the battery or distribution panel, a "power probe" is a great tool to have for problems like yours.
Last edited by Wobble; 08-21-2018 at 10:30 AM.
08-21-2018 | 10:54 AM
#18
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From: Atlantic Southeast
Typically the helm power comes directly from a distribution block that is fed from the batteries. On many boats the gauge of that wire is barely enough to get the job done with the stock components blowers etc.. If you have a one wire alternator then you will not see the designed voltage at the dash. Marine alternators have remote voltage sensing in order to compensate for the distance. Assuming it is as designed you should first try supplying a temporary new ground direct from the battery or ground block, then try running power from the battery or distribution panel, a "power probe" is a great tool to have for problems like yours.
It’s not a 1 wire alt. its a circa 1996 Mando on 7.4l LX MPI’s. Also even at engine running volts (13.8-14 typically), still no sound and the battery gauge crashes 2v upon sounding the horn.
A power probe as in test light or are speaking of something else?
Thanks for the above info. Off to find the power & distribution blocks. I’m guessing somewhere near the breaker panel.
08-21-2018 | 11:15 AM
#19
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From: 29°50'49.74"N 95° 5'17.55"W.......TEXAS
It’s not a 1 wire alt. its a circa 1996 Mando on 7.4l LX MPI’s. Also even at engine running volts (13.8-14 typically), still no sound and the battery gauge crashes 2v upon sounding the horn.
A power probe as in test light or are speaking of something else?
Thanks for the above info. Off to find the power & distribution blocks. I’m guessing somewhere near the breaker panel.
