cheap and internal poor casting from the ones I seen. This is were price shows its quality

if you are not running high RPMs never understood why run one of the Victors. the range states 3500 to 7500. Heck not many boats even running 6500 rpms more of less 7500 rpms. I would use the dual plane air gap and play with spacers especially wood or phenolic. Also port match at the very least. . Info on the Victors and rpms.

https://www.jegs.com/p/Edelbrock/Ede...79363/10002/-1

Thanks for the link interesting stuff for sure all though the test was kinda floored, if they had used the same size carb it would have been a better back to back test so we will never really know,

They are just advertised RPM ranges for the auto world, a dyno could never replicate the dynamic state of a boat under load!

i think a modern engine dyno can simulate those load scenerios, however, finding a shop that is willing to do that, is far and few. Theres just no way a sweep from 3500-6000 is going to give you a proper tune/test. You can bring the engine up to say 3500rpm, and load the brake to where you get a real world intake manifold pressure reading, to simulate the cruising load.

for example. If my boat cruises at 3500, making 1psi of boost, I can replicate that on the dyno. At that point, you can adjust for best ignition timing, fuel mixture, record data, etc. Imo, there is no better way to find out a proper ignition curve, than watching and letting the engine tell you what it likes for ignition timing. This is pretty much how the manufactures do things. They certainly arent building a 700sci merc, or hellcat hemi, and just doing a 10 second sweep pull on the dyno and calling it a day.

its kinda amazing, because theres guys who build some pretty high end engines in our hobby. Spending well north of 50,000 dollars on a custom engine package. Using the best parts, sparing no expense. Yet, the final product, and its validity, is determined by a few simple wot pulls on a dyno.

I agree completely , most engine shops have older , small capacity dynos ( 901-stuska 600 -froude ) that are rated at 1000hp or less . Those old girls are good up to a point but , they cant do steady state with that kind of torque. The steady state testing requires an ass load of constant cold water supply , like directly from city water mains! Or a huge underground tank and return water chiller. ( the napcar shop i worked at had 5000 gallons underground , 10000 above ground and 2 , 1000 gallon a minute chillers with city water make up , to keep dyno brake water temp below 140. For full race duration simulations ) . Most shops cant justify that level of cost . Thus the few quick pulls and done. Depending on the build , it may take as many as 20-30 pulls to normalize and get repeatability, and thats back to back with no idle time!