big block piston squirters
 

Has any member installed piston squirters in a gen 6 gm 502 ? I have seen jiggs/drills and parts for other motors. they are common in many other motors i"ve seen. I bought two new ones and marine heads, they are apart now and it was on the wish list. thank you in advance

Are you building a boosted engine? From what I have read, its good on a turbo or blower engine but the benefits are not there on a NA engine.

some engines have them right from stock builds and I have them and valve spring oilers on NA engines using dry sump. .

You dont really need them unless you have a dry sump engine, If its wet sump and you add squirters, you will put a lot of oil up there, Not required, With a dry sump engine they are so efficent its good to have but again, you would need to be making a lot of power to require them..

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CV products makes a kit for BBC for use with a dry sump system.

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I made a set up that has a direct shot to the piston. They also shut off under 50psi oil pressure. Unless these are going to be big power probably not worth it.

no boost, they are common in high winding vw ,porche audi and LS motors. I have built 427 big blocks for my midyear cars that rev and been forgiving when I miss a gear. after dry sumping and turbocharging my sandrail it made very crisp throttle with MSD and rev limit. So I asked I marine engine builder whom speaks clear . can I destroke then bore to 4.600 and make it run like my car. he said { whats the point ?}. so in the interest of keeping dependability I am looking at cams around .580 lift/ 114 LSA and fuel injection profile. heads 65hours portwork per pair and matching stealth intakes . may go crank triggers and beltdrives. I asked about the 600 dollar imitation belt drives and nobody I know in Indy area has bought one. reminder goal is 600 TQ/ 600 HP . bought Howard spings , HarlenSharp roller rockers and PBM lifters. looking for dock manners and smooth flat pull like a diesel from 2800- 6200 rpm. I don't want to damage the trannies or drives . looking for quality build with aluminum flywheels and proper balance. I"ve messed with hemi"s, pontiacs, ford FE, vw and so forth , You notice the oil system and ignition system when looking at endurance. { troys Jacksonville , on you tube} is exactly my goal other than drives. If the the boat was not such a dream i would not have sold boat I bought 18 months before. also on oil pumps , are the billet better than a m77 . i am using the 8 qt factory pans with merc 4" cast and ss exhaust. I'm about $3-4 k from being done with motors, boat has been microsanded/ cut and buffed,waxed . need some seatwork. microsanded and urethaned teak . purchased a ss arc from a boat that burned to grab on when boarding. missed PRI 2 weeks ago and did not get to see the new goodies. thought hard about diesels and LS repower but all the fabrication cost more than the 502s . around here big blocks are not as much as a swap. the 454ls6 motors were old tech and my heart was not in it. I am trying to plan accordingly then have them assembled and dynoed by local experts. loose or tight bearings/ coated? low friction rings ? I don"t know as its a new direction from building muscle car engines. I prefer American everthing first but admire any impute from any gear head . the engines are the new style with fuel pump boss and extra oil ports, stock forged cranks ,dot rods and je small domes. sold cams and aluminum heads, bought the gen 6 marine squares. may just use good head bolts with felpro marine gaskets. anybody got some opinions . budget minded , thanks again

No need to reinvent the wheel to make a 600hp 502/509 ci engine. I agree with the builder....whats the point??
No reason for piston oilers on a 600hp n/a engine that will make peak HP in the 5600rpm range.

I take advice from craftsman and answer so far is { not for wet sump or low HP } next question about oil squirters {valve springs would be easy to fab } . would like to pin the throttle and let them eat without constant maintenance . not race engines, like a short stroke motor. are the new gen 6 blocks good as delivered ? or do they need more oil passage work ? if I'm beating this to death its because I don"t know Marine engines and only get one turn at bat. opinions

The flow in the block is more than adequate for 600hp+. The oil lines and passages in the Merc remote filter assembly should be enlarged though.

Old thread with good info https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...-hardware.html

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I have both spring and piston oilers on wet sump engines. About a 15 psi loss.
I wouldn`t run without them personally . had my top ends done in 2014 and spring pressures were only down a few psi this year and everything looked good after 300+ hours.. Springs make a lot of heat in the engine.
As far as piston oilers... cooling the bottom of the piston, anything I can do to prevent detonation I will. but my stuff is 900hp and blown.
I`d plan on adding piston oilers to any engine I build.

FWIW....Merc didnt have piston oilers in the 900SC.....but the put them in the 850/1075SCi....at least according to some parts diagrams

As said earlier.....I dont think it would be worth the effort for a 600 hp BBC.

they are in those engines.

I do this procedure on any engine making high power, boosted, or elevated compression ratio, especially for marine use. I modify the oil pumps in those applications to offset pressure lost thru additional jetting

What oil pump with a crank clearance around .0028 - .003 would have enough flow and psi ? Hydraulic rollers on top thin 30 or 40 weight synthetic after break in oil. { reminder , my goal is dependability and longevity } not trying to find the engineering limits of the 1986 hull. did not find any small squirters with size choices. also the roller bearing rockers needing their share . I"ve seen many slick ideas but i"m still looking at stock pump location and 8qt boat pan. the original LS6 motors had Hardin oil heads and thermostats with multiple sensors. the new CP style are all in one however i think the hose diameter is bigger. a lot to learn about what really will work . yea , could just bolt it together and ask what did I do wrong? it will be difficult to access the motors other than topside once installed .

if you're running upwards of .003" bottom end clearance, you'll need good sized pans and a Mellings 77HV pump with a pressure mod

and I always run -12 lines in any high volume application