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At this point and as most mention above, the issue most likely lies in the Control Valve Assembly on the rack. |
Originally Posted by AllDodge
(Post 4668936)
I'm leaning your way, but could also be the pump. If you can let go of the wheel and it doesn't immediately start turning to port, then probably the rack, but if it does then might be the pump. If you have some hydraulic gaguges you could check the pump
The boat tracks straight on plane and off when I let go of the wheel while on the water. On plane the steering wheel has to be wrestled right, idle speed and on trailer much heavier steering to the right. Would the control valve be the only failure point of the rack or can the steering cable tube come into play as well? I ask as a member above mentioned they have a control valve and figure that would be much easier to replace than the entire rack. Keith |
Originally Posted by Tractionless
(Post 4668938)
Thanks, as described above the pump is new and the steering behaves the same as with the old unit.
The boat tracks straight on plane and off when I let go of the wheel while on the water. On plane the steering wheel has to be wrestled right, idle speed and on trailer much heavier steering to the right. Would the control valve be the only failure point of the rack or can the steering cable tube come into play as well? I ask as a member above mentioned they have a control valve and figure that would be much easier to replace than the entire rack. Keith https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c9e0f4c376.jpg |
Originally Posted by AllDodge
(Post 4668944)
The control is a shuttle valve which slides one side or the other as the cable is moved. If the valve moves easy and there are no internal leaks, then it should slide either way easy. I have not tried to replace just the control, think its easier (for me) to replace the rack.
I purchased an entire new rack. No reason to take a chance. I only have the Merc. Manual #1 and Claymer which are both engine and stops with the PS pump. Is there a dang pivot bolt attaching the rack at the bottom as well as the one staring me in the face on the top? I sure hope not :( Keith |
Your correct only the one.
The hardest part to remove/install the rack is the tabs that keep the top and bottom bolts in place. Those tabs need to be beny clear to remove, and bent back in place to secure. The pivot bolts do not go clear thru |
Thanks AD! Not sure I can tackle the bottom bolt myself so crossing my fingers my friend (mechanic) can help me tomorrow, maybe not as there's a 90% change of rain. If not maybe the mobile boat mechanic I use can do it this week so I can make it on the water Sunday. I'll keep the thread updated as to the results. Keith |
Keith, Look at a paint can opener about a buck ($1.00) and I think you can get the tab started. Once it is started it is fairly easy to finish opening it up, laying it flat. The bolt is not tight no worry there.
Keith, did you pick up the Teague take off? |
Curious to know final outcome. |
Originally Posted by GLENAMY 242SS
(Post 4669877)
Keith, Look at a paint can opener about a buck ($1.00) and I think you can get the tab started. Once it is started it is fairly easy to finish opening it up, laying it flat. The bolt is not tight no worry there.
Keith, did you pick up the Teague take off? Mechanic buddy didn't help today as it rained all day. Hesitant to call the boat mechanic because he makes a huge grease mess for me to clean each time and will probably just let the power steering fluid drain in the bilge, ugh!! I don't have alot of SAE tools as all of my previous wrenching experience has been with metric. Does anyone know the size socket needed for the pivot bolt heads. |
Steering
1 inch just backed out lower bolt e nuff to pull unit it was ruff but doable
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