OE Hydraulic Steering No Assist
#11
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From: KY
At this point and as most mention above, the issue most likely lies in the Control Valve Assembly on the rack.
#12
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From: Atlantic Southeast
The boat tracks straight on plane and off when I let go of the wheel while on the water. On plane the steering wheel has to be wrestled right, idle speed and on trailer much heavier steering to the right.
Would the control valve be the only failure point of the rack or can the steering cable tube come into play as well? I ask as a member above mentioned they have a control valve and figure that would be much easier to replace than the entire rack.
Keith
Last edited by Tractionless; 01-20-2019 at 04:13 PM.
#13
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From: KY
Thanks, as described above the pump is new and the steering behaves the same as with the old unit.
The boat tracks straight on plane and off when I let go of the wheel while on the water. On plane the steering wheel has to be wrestled right, idle speed and on trailer much heavier steering to the right.
Would the control valve be the only failure point of the rack or can the steering cable tube come into play as well? I ask as a member above mentioned they have a control valve and figure that would be much easier to replace than the entire rack.
Keith
The boat tracks straight on plane and off when I let go of the wheel while on the water. On plane the steering wheel has to be wrestled right, idle speed and on trailer much heavier steering to the right.
Would the control valve be the only failure point of the rack or can the steering cable tube come into play as well? I ask as a member above mentioned they have a control valve and figure that would be much easier to replace than the entire rack.
Keith
#14
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From: Atlantic Southeast
The control is a shuttle valve which slides one side or the other as the cable is moved. If the valve moves easy and there are no internal leaks, then it should slide either way easy. I have not tried to replace just the control, think its easier (for me) to replace the rack.
I purchased an entire new rack. No reason to take a chance. I only have the Merc. Manual #1 and Claymer which are both engine and stops with the PS pump.
Is there a dang pivot bolt attaching the rack at the bottom as well as the one staring me in the face on the top? I sure hope not

Keith
#15
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From: KY
Your correct only the one.
The hardest part to remove/install the rack is the tabs that keep the top and bottom bolts in place. Those tabs need to be beny clear to remove, and bent back in place to secure. The pivot bolts do not go clear thru
The hardest part to remove/install the rack is the tabs that keep the top and bottom bolts in place. Those tabs need to be beny clear to remove, and bent back in place to secure. The pivot bolts do not go clear thru
#16
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From: Atlantic Southeast
Thanks AD! Not sure I can tackle the bottom bolt myself so crossing my fingers my friend (mechanic) can help me tomorrow, maybe not as there's a 90% change of rain. If not maybe the mobile boat mechanic I use can do it this week so I can make it on the water Sunday.
I'll keep the thread updated as to the results.
Keith
I'll keep the thread updated as to the results.
Keith
#17
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Joined: Apr 2014
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Keith, Look at a paint can opener about a buck ($1.00) and I think you can get the tab started. Once it is started it is fairly easy to finish opening it up, laying it flat. The bolt is not tight no worry there.
Keith, did you pick up the Teague take off?
Keith, did you pick up the Teague take off?
Last edited by GLENAMY 242SS; 01-26-2019 at 01:17 PM.
#19
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Joined: Jul 2015
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From: Atlantic Southeast
Mechanic buddy didn't help today as it rained all day. Hesitant to call the boat mechanic because he makes a huge grease mess for me to clean each time and will probably just let the power steering fluid drain in the bilge, ugh!!
I don't have alot of SAE tools as all of my previous wrenching experience has been with metric.
Does anyone know the size socket needed for the pivot bolt heads.



