Teague custom cams
#11
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Ive picked a few cams from Comps Master lobe catalogs. Mainly the HUC series. Last pair of cams got this MSE treatment https://youtu.be/hTyIQxrPCCI
#13
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Another pair of cams were from comps HUC lobes for a pair of 87 octane 502's. Those did not have the MSE finish, but billet core with iron gear. Were about $400 each, custom ground and delivered in about a week.
Theres a couple guys at comp that are great, and know what theyre talking about. If youre not sure what it is you want, and need someone to spec something, those are the guys you wanna talk with. I pretty much just page thru their catalog, pick and intake lobe, an exhaust lobe, the ICL and LSA , and they'll grind it.
#14
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Tks and still gonna post specs when I get home. For some reason I was thinking the guy I dealt with for years who was the go to guy left comp. I don't doubt they still have very knowledgeable staff. There was a couple shelf cams that were close to what I wanted from a couple different companies however I'd rather be close to spot on with the events etc. Surprising though accordingly to Doug my good friend mentioned they chose to run their hyd roller lobe with solids. I know we've debated this before however this was coming right from the techs.
#15
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I just want to share that a few years ago I had a relatively minor problem with exchanging a prop with Teague and Bob Teague got on the phone with me himself and quickly resolved it. That's great customer service.
#16
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Tks and still gonna post specs when I get home. For some reason I was thinking the guy I dealt with for years who was the go to guy left comp. I don't doubt they still have very knowledgeable staff. There was a couple shelf cams that were close to what I wanted from a couple different companies however I'd rather be close to spot on with the events etc. Surprising though accordingly to Doug my good friend mentioned they chose to run their hyd roller lobe with solids. I know we've debated this before however this was coming right from the techs.
With a solid on a hyd profile, sure you can do it. Some hydraulic profiles from some companies are actually tight lash solid lobes labeled "hydraulic". However if you wanna run solids , Better keep an eye on that lash, and make sure its good and tight. Once you start getting a little excessive lash, whether it be from engine growth, valve seat wear, or whatever, that lobe is gonna start beating the valvetrain like a stepchild. With a hydraulic, you have alot more room before the valvetrain starts separating and sledgehammering parts, thanks to the hydraulic preload. The whole purpose of a "lash ramp" , is to get the slack out of the valvetrain, before the big time acceleration starts. Once you get away from those ideal settings, that the cam manufacturer designs it to be ran at, your parts start colliding like a mack truck hitting a brick wall. This is part of why hyd cams advertised durations are measured at .004/.006, and a solid is measured at .020. Theres not a whole lot going on before .020 on most solid lobes due to the lash ramps, but after .020, look out, they get with it in a hurry. Of course theres endurance oriented solids, drag race oriented solids, and so on.
Guys like eddie young, have 900+hp engines that go 300 plus hours without a valve cover coming off. I cant say any of the guys i know running solids have been able to do that, even taking lash adjustments out of the equation. Most of them are replacing beat up valve seats, locks pounded into retainers, chewed up valve stems, lifter wheels and forks beat up, etc. I do like solids in certain applications, but you gotta keep on the lash setting. If you get any slack for any reason, in a marine engine, it wont be long till theres carnage. Or, if youre in a max effort type of build, where youre trying to squeeze as much as possible from a combo i can see trying the solids (although in some tests they gained 0 over a hyd lifter ). In most boats, 20hp doesnt mean squat, so most will go with the easy combination of parts that will last a few hundred hours.