Need advice stat- filled block with water!
04-03-2019, 10:58 PM
#61
Registered
Did you run your engines first before putting antifreeze in them? I use to work at a marina in upstate NY. We used -50 and -100 below antifreeze. 5 gallons used on v8 engines. 4 were used on v6.
Today i hobby in boat stuff. I winterize my twin engine boat and other boats in the area where I live now. The key is, you must start and run the boat up to operating temperature first. Let it run and start circulating water..... then and only then, start pumping the antifreeze in the block. Fogg the carb or air filter and shut her down at 1/2 gal of antifreeze and she is ready for spring.
I have seen several other folks with cracks blocks by starting their engine and not allowing engine to warm up and have that t stat cycle.
sorry to hear about the block.
Today i hobby in boat stuff. I winterize my twin engine boat and other boats in the area where I live now. The key is, you must start and run the boat up to operating temperature first. Let it run and start circulating water..... then and only then, start pumping the antifreeze in the block. Fogg the carb or air filter and shut her down at 1/2 gal of antifreeze and she is ready for spring.
I have seen several other folks with cracks blocks by starting their engine and not allowing engine to warm up and have that t stat cycle.
sorry to hear about the block.
04-03-2019, 11:21 PM
#62
Registered
Thread Starter
Did you run your engines first before putting antifreeze in them? I use to work at a marina in upstate NY. We used -50 and -100 below antifreeze. 5 gallons used on v8 engines. 4 were used on v6.
Today i hobby in boat stuff. I winterize my twin engine boat and other boats in the area where I live now. The key is, you must start and run the boat up to operating temperature first. Let it run and start circulating water..... then and only then, start pumping the antifreeze in the block. Fogg the carb or air filter and shut her down at 1/2 gal of antifreeze and she is ready for spring.
I have seen several other folks with cracks blocks by starting their engine and not allowing engine to warm up and have that t stat cycle.
sorry to hear about the block.
Today i hobby in boat stuff. I winterize my twin engine boat and other boats in the area where I live now. The key is, you must start and run the boat up to operating temperature first. Let it run and start circulating water..... then and only then, start pumping the antifreeze in the block. Fogg the carb or air filter and shut her down at 1/2 gal of antifreeze and she is ready for spring.
I have seen several other folks with cracks blocks by starting their engine and not allowing engine to warm up and have that t stat cycle.
sorry to hear about the block.
The other explanation that crossed my mind was that the coolant passages were partially blocked by corrosion or gunk. But I didnt really know, and after taking the thermostat housings apart 20 times (on top of all the other issues I'd been dealing with since installed) I was pretty happy to see oil temps around 240 and just go boating.
Last edited by blown; 04-03-2019 at 11:30 PM.
04-03-2019, 11:25 PM
#63
Registered
Thread Starter
It just crossed my mind... In my thinking at the time of winterization I'd completely killed the bypass with those spacers, but I cant remember now if the balls were really tight in there (completely stopping flow) or if I left a little bit of slack which would allow the coolant to flow past into the bypass instead of through the block, even with no stats in.
What do "normal" Hp500 guys do about the bypass when they winterize?
When I go check the boat next (maybe tomorrow) I'll pull the braided lines off and inspect how tightly I'd blocked off the bypass.
What do "normal" Hp500 guys do about the bypass when they winterize?
When I go check the boat next (maybe tomorrow) I'll pull the braided lines off and inspect how tightly I'd blocked off the bypass.
04-04-2019, 06:33 AM
#64
Registered
you should get into the habit of draining the blocks.then put the antifreeze in,should take(bbc) ~6gal.
and I'm sorry for your cracked block.
I had the same(I got the pleasure to fix it) milky oil in a whippled hp500efi.A supposed pro shop put 454 felpro head gaskets on and sealant on the head bolts(which were all loose),morons must have thought engine was a 454,he/they couldn't tell that the fire ring was in the bores,unbelievable.
all fixed and ready to go back to florida.(yeah,boat got sold and then the engine failed.if the shop doesn't compensate the owner,,I'll gladly rat them out.
and I'm sorry for your cracked block.
I had the same(I got the pleasure to fix it) milky oil in a whippled hp500efi.A supposed pro shop put 454 felpro head gaskets on and sealant on the head bolts(which were all loose),morons must have thought engine was a 454,he/they couldn't tell that the fire ring was in the bores,unbelievable.
all fixed and ready to go back to florida.(yeah,boat got sold and then the engine failed.if the shop doesn't compensate the owner,,I'll gladly rat them out.
04-04-2019, 06:45 AM
#65
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
iTrader: (6)
Sorry to hear the news, was it cracked at the drain plug or else where......and as s-30 stated pull the drain plugs and stick a small screw driver in the hole to clean it, I'm working on a pair of 580's for a friend of mine, boats been sitting for a few yrs and when the plugs were pulled one side has been completely blocks all this time, hope their okay and the coolers were full of water. good luck on the rebuild.
Last edited by F-2 Speedy; 04-04-2019 at 06:52 AM.
04-04-2019, 07:23 AM
#66
Registered
^^^^^ What F-2 Speedy said. I always pull the plugs and drain the water , small screw driver and blow gun to clear the rust and chit from the water jacket drains.
Ive had more than one customers boat , that they self winterized. Had the plugs in a ziplock bag and the block and manifolds were still full of water ....
and cracked all to ****.
Ive had more than one customers boat , that they self winterized. Had the plugs in a ziplock bag and the block and manifolds were still full of water ....
and cracked all to ****.
04-04-2019, 01:57 PM
#67
Registered
iTrader: (7)
F
I feel bad for you. We all slip from time to time. The norm is live and learn but sometimes we just live more than we learn over time. I've posted different times on an effective set up that works well for many applications. Run 3/8" pipe to 6 an adapter from block drains and loop up over the top of engine with a coupler for quick disconnect. Just need to make sure you get close to equal amount of water on each side when lowing into the bilge. If not apply a little air to hose to loosen possible scale blockage. Connect back together and drain coolers, exhaust and raw water pump. Fill with antifreeze under t-stat. Many methods that work it's just a matter of preference.
I went for years with complete success with just getting engines up to temps, pull muffs, whip the throttle a couple times and immediately have muffs ready with a 6' hose connected to to muffs and a 5 gallon gas can and lay on swim platform and start and let run til empty. Never had an issue.
One one year I screwed up and got lazy and cracked two drag ass 330's thinking it wouldn't get that cold TONIGHT with a lightbulb in the bilge and both blocks cracked. Big fk up but was looking for a reason for more power anyway but still a waste of two low hour 330's. Stock cast manifolds bit it also. No biggy... They come in handy for front end weight on the kabota for snow plowing. Since then just for quick emergency situations I did the block drain set up for a piece of mind. And exhaust is easy to drain. Can do both engines in the length of time it takes to drink one beer. Can always go back and do the truditional route for security when it's not chitty out.
Btw the year the 330's snapped only other thing that went was the exhaust. Once I saw the one engine was cracked there wasn't much I could do so I just let them go til spring and then surveyed the damage. Nothing else was crack or hurt in anyway. I was surprised.
I feel bad for you. We all slip from time to time. The norm is live and learn but sometimes we just live more than we learn over time. I've posted different times on an effective set up that works well for many applications. Run 3/8" pipe to 6 an adapter from block drains and loop up over the top of engine with a coupler for quick disconnect. Just need to make sure you get close to equal amount of water on each side when lowing into the bilge. If not apply a little air to hose to loosen possible scale blockage. Connect back together and drain coolers, exhaust and raw water pump. Fill with antifreeze under t-stat. Many methods that work it's just a matter of preference.
I went for years with complete success with just getting engines up to temps, pull muffs, whip the throttle a couple times and immediately have muffs ready with a 6' hose connected to to muffs and a 5 gallon gas can and lay on swim platform and start and let run til empty. Never had an issue.
One one year I screwed up and got lazy and cracked two drag ass 330's thinking it wouldn't get that cold TONIGHT with a lightbulb in the bilge and both blocks cracked. Big fk up but was looking for a reason for more power anyway but still a waste of two low hour 330's. Stock cast manifolds bit it also. No biggy... They come in handy for front end weight on the kabota for snow plowing. Since then just for quick emergency situations I did the block drain set up for a piece of mind. And exhaust is easy to drain. Can do both engines in the length of time it takes to drink one beer. Can always go back and do the truditional route for security when it's not chitty out.
Btw the year the 330's snapped only other thing that went was the exhaust. Once I saw the one engine was cracked there wasn't much I could do so I just let them go til spring and then surveyed the damage. Nothing else was crack or hurt in anyway. I was surprised.
Last edited by getrdunn; 04-04-2019 at 02:02 PM.
04-04-2019, 02:18 PM
#69
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iTrader: (1)
Boats can be like wives - even when you did everything correctly you still f***ed up. Lol
Bummer deal, but know that almost everyone here has popped an engine for the silliest of reasons so you’re in good company. ;p
You can probably sell your two engines a get a couple solid runners from Sick Stringer for about the cost of redoing that one engine.
Bummer deal, but know that almost everyone here has popped an engine for the silliest of reasons so you’re in good company. ;p
You can probably sell your two engines a get a couple solid runners from Sick Stringer for about the cost of redoing that one engine.
04-04-2019, 04:02 PM
#70
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iTrader: (7)
That's why I had to mention out of all the years boating and knowing very well all the risk I still fked up. Ya kinda like getting married. Lol... Mine was just stupidity and my normal procrastinating. Boat was in a building and thought no way it was cold enough to pop a block. Wrong. Kinda like pulling the pontoon out. Let's not do it on a nice mid fall day and wait and do it when it's sleeting and in 30 mph plus winds. I always think I will get that one last ride in and never do anyway so wtf.
Last edited by getrdunn; 04-04-2019 at 04:08 PM.
