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Dry exhaust / reversion question

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Old 04-01-2019 | 05:07 PM
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Default Dry exhaust / reversion question

I have a 502 with standard height stainless marine exhaust manifolds and risers. I fired up the motor for the first time. New motor. Let it run a couple minutes and pulled the risers off and there was a little bit of water down there. I was wonder if on the hose that runs from the manifold to front of the riser was to be bypassed and i run the hose out the back of the boat instead. Pretty much making it dry exhaust. My question is beside being a little louder would it creat to much heat in the engine compartment? Not have the water running through the risers. Any other issues? Anybody else done this?
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Old 04-01-2019 | 05:14 PM
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You have to have water running through the risers. If these aren’t set up as dry tails it would quickly destroy the doubler coupling from riser to tip.
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Old 04-01-2019 | 05:39 PM
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OK, SO HOW ARE THE DRY PIPE DIFFERENT? MADE FROM DIFFERENT MATERIAL. THESE DO EXIT AT THE TAIL END OF THE RISER. BUT STILL GETTING REVERSION. WAS GUNNA BUY SOME TALLER RISERS. THE 500hp VERSION BUT WAS JUST WONDERING ABOUT THIS OTHER OPTION.
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Old 04-01-2019 | 05:56 PM
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Just checking to see if your running on the hose with the bow of the boat down a sloped driveway? This is an unnatural position for the boat and will revert water then but not out on the water.

I have zero to add about the dry pipes.
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Old 04-01-2019 | 06:09 PM
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Dry tails aren’t actually dry. The are still water jacketed However by different means the water doesn’t mix with the exhaust stream. Some have bungs with thru hulls. Some are dry to the tip meaning the water doesn’t mix until the end of tip after transom. The above post is correct make sure you’re not bow down or motor tilted forward. Also I’ve been told if you’re only running the risers without the coupler and tip reversion is possible. Plenty of variables

and please turn caps lock off.
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Old 04-01-2019 | 06:14 PM
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i would pressure test the manifold make sure there's not a hole in it
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Old 04-01-2019 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by chopperkell
OK, SO HOW ARE THE DRY PIPE DIFFERENT? MADE FROM DIFFERENT MATERIAL. THESE DO EXIT AT THE TAIL END OF THE RISER. BUT STILL GETTING REVERSION. WAS GUNNA BUY SOME TALLER RISERS. THE 500hp VERSION BUT WAS JUST WONDERING ABOUT THIS OTHER OPTION.
Why are you yelling??? So you can be heard over the dry exhaust??

Dry exhaust is water jacketed.
if you just dump the hose from the manifold, the rest of the exhaust is not water jacketed, nor cooled by water mixing with the exhaust, it will get insanely hot inside the bilge
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Old 04-01-2019 | 08:13 PM
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Lol. Not yelling. Was on my work computer and just used to it being that way.

No the nose of the boat is not down. The motor is actually on a stand in my garage. I started it on that.

I figured it would super hot in the bilge but just wanted to see if it has been or could be done. Im going to have to get some taller riser to keep from reverting. I already talked to stainless marine about it was just checking options.

Think it would be ok to run the total dry for a few minutes on the stand with out causing a problem. Would like to run again on the stand untill i get new risers.
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Old 04-01-2019 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by chopperkell

I figured it would super hot in the bilge but just wanted to see if it has been or could be done.
Think it would be ok to run the total dry for a few minutes on the stand with out causing a problem. Would like to run again on the stand untill i get new risers.
Running the risers without water won't heat your engine compartment. It will catch it on fire along with your boat.... I wouldn't run them completely dry on the firing stand. Just run enough water to keep them from overheating. How much water were you running when u found it in the manifolds?
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Old 04-02-2019 | 08:25 AM
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there wasn't a huge amount of water. I ran it for about a minute and there was just a little in a couple of the ports. not really even a puddle. you can just see that its wet.
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