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Unfortunately I used up all the inputs on my ECU. Im not sure if I'm going to change ECU or use what I have now. The ecus I'm looking at can monitor, datalog and and even shut a hot cylinder off.
If I keep my current ecu I was looking into something like this: https://www.altronicsinc.com/egt-sys...ecorder-1.html Im pretty sure builder has egt setup on dyno. |
Just see if your dyno guy has them you will need them for sure. |
Not sure im going to take it to an stand dyno, might just go to a chassis dyno. There is so many items tied into my ecu to remove the harness it would be a nightmare. Wires are all tucked under the entire dash and go from there, not to mention taking the front of my car apart to get the intercooler out. Haven't made a final decision yet. That's why I'm looking into my own egts.
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if you are running the MKVIII fan then yes you are moving as much as possible. they move a ton of air no doubt. some of the guys that work on radiator and heat load testing did some tests for NASCAR and others and found that the black paint raised the amount of heat removed. most guys get by with leaving them aluminum because they have more cooling than they need so the difference would not be noticed. is this a single or double pass radiator? btw, you can get a rattle can of paint for bbq's that will hold up to the heat and not build thick and sticks to the aluminum well.
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Originally Posted by 14 apache
(Post 4682345)
it has a belt driven water pump. Btw what do you consider big power? 1200hp is pretty big. https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=...&ictx=3&uact=3 |
Originally Posted by underpsi68
(Post 4682400)
I have used a belt driven pump. Currently running an electric (in picture) that uses an idler pulley. It is a 55gpm pump. It will flow more at idle/lower rpms than the belt driven pump. Same for using the electric fan I'm running. Also running the pump on PWM to vary the speed and amperage draw. My temps issues are more at idle/ low speed due to not much air getting into engine compartment and a small front opening. I am running a 4" thick intercooler that is as big as I could fit. Than I have 2 transmission coolers blocking the top of the radiator (as well as a frame mounted transmission cooler). It is hard to keep the tranny cool to make it last, especially with a high stall convertor. 10 years without any issues.
When you say high hp, how much are we talking? This engine will make 1000+, probably 1400 (possibly 1500) all in. It is much harder to keep a car cool driven on the street than a boat. I wish I had an endless supply of cold water lol. Also are you running a supercharger? Stock block? I ran Vortechs for about 20 years. The supercharger engine will run cooler than the turbo setup. Factory block will run cooler than my Ford "R" race block. Siamese bore with a lot more metal. Not much room for coolant. Lol Also possibly a big difference in traffic and air temps. Did I say I love NY? |
Originally Posted by Full Force
(Post 4682533)
I have ran both blocks and also modular, supercharged, many buddys with turbos also, I was just tossing idea out there, but 14 Apache had to dig at me like always so I won't bother anymore, carry on..
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Originally Posted by underpsi68
(Post 4682614)
Come back and join the party! I'm one of the few Ford guys here.
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Originally Posted by underpsi68
(Post 4682614)
Come back and join the party! I'm one of the few Ford guys here.
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Originally Posted by 14 apache
(Post 4682633)
there is one ford guy with pretty good power on here think it's in a cigarette. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...699a4a68e7.jpg |
Originally Posted by compedgemarine
(Post 4682478)
if you are running the MKVIII fan then yes you are moving as much as possible. they move a ton of air no doubt. some of the guys that work on radiator and heat load testing did some tests for NASCAR and others and found that the black paint raised the amount of heat removed. most guys get by with leaving them aluminum because they have more cooling than they need so the difference would not be noticed. is this a single or double pass radiator? btw, you can get a rattle can of paint for bbq's that will hold up to the heat and not build thick and sticks to the aluminum well.
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Originally Posted by underpsi68
(Post 4682673)
The one I'm thinking of was a 41 Velocity with 600ci bbf with psi blowers.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...699a4a68e7.jpg |
Here is the thread on his build. Not sure if he ever finished it. It is a good read, long read. https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...-upgrades.html
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let me preface this and say that I am not a ford guy (even though I have a 65 mustang, among other cars). but a problem is a problem and overheating is overheating no matter the brand. when you say it runs to the hot side is this in traffic, idling, or running hard? if any thing other than running hard it does not matter if it is 150 hp or 2000 hp because in traffic it is not making much power no matter what it is capable of. you have a fan that moves a ton of air so we can discount air flow unless there is some blockage. you have the biggest radiator you can fit (what is the car? looks like a fox body or whatever they call the next gen) either way you are out of real estate so the only other thing is flow rate of the pump. is it under driven? if so you may not be moving enough coolant at lower speeds. what are you running for coolant? with the air flow of that fan there is no reason to not find a way to keep it cool. I have that same fan on my test stand and the engine drops 50 rpm from the alternator load when it turns on. would love to find a fan that moves that much air but doesnt take 50 hp to power it.
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here is a good read, it deals with an LS based motor but the principles are the same.
Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world. |
Originally Posted by compedgemarine
(Post 4682686)
let me preface this and say that I am not a ford guy (even though I have a 65 mustang, among other cars). but a problem is a problem and overheating is overheating no matter the brand. when you say it runs to the hot side is this in traffic, idling, or running hard? if any thing other than running hard it does not matter if it is 150 hp or 2000 hp because in traffic it is not making much power no matter what it is capable of. you have a fan that moves a ton of air so we can discount air flow unless there is some blockage. you have the biggest radiator you can fit (what is the car? looks like a fox body or whatever they call the next gen) either way you are out of real estate so the only other thing is flow rate of the pump. is it under driven? if so you may not be moving enough coolant at lower speeds. what are you running for coolant? with the air flow of that fan there is no reason to not find a way to keep it cool. I have that same fan on my test stand and the engine drops 50 rpm from the alternator load when it turns on. would love to find a fan that moves that much air but doesnt take 50 hp to power it.
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Originally Posted by 14 apache
(Post 4682692)
50hp to run a fan? Lol |
Originally Posted by compedgemarine
(Post 4682686)
let me preface this and say that I am not a ford guy (even though I have a 65 mustang, among other cars). but a problem is a problem and overheating is overheating no matter the brand. when you say it runs to the hot side is this in traffic, idling, or running hard? if any thing other than running hard it does not matter if it is 150 hp or 2000 hp because in traffic it is not making much power no matter what it is capable of. you have a fan that moves a ton of air so we can discount air flow unless there is some blockage. you have the biggest radiator you can fit (what is the car? looks like a fox body or whatever they call the next gen) either way you are out of real estate so the only other thing is flow rate of the pump. is it under driven? if so you may not be moving enough coolant at lower speeds. what are you running for coolant? with the air flow of that fan there is no reason to not find a way to keep it cool. I have that same fan on my test stand and the engine drops 50 rpm from the alternator load when it turns on. would love to find a fan that moves that much air but doesnt take 50 hp to power it.
I'm running an electric water pump than flows more at low rpm's than the factory pump, 55gpm at idle. I tried just about every pump/pulley combination and have the car dialed in the best as of now. Also added Redline water wetter, tried different coolant/water percentages etc.It is what it is. |
that's the problem with a car that was engineered around a 250hp engine. you run out of room quick when you add stuff. probably no room in the front but maybe add a pusher fan to the help airflow at low speeds? I build a lot of hot rods (mostly street driven with moderate power) so I understand trying to fit bigger radiators, etc into a spot made for a radiator that cooled a 100 hp six cyl. it sounds like it stays around or under 200 so it is not running away with heat. most new cars run 210 to 220 and dont melt down so may not be worth worrying too much about.
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Prop the rear of the hood up to let hot air out? Get more flow?
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Anyone like me that worked on carb cars back with Tyrannosaurus Rex's and Pterodactyls ?
Anyway, dumb mid/late 70's cars had very low/retarded timing and could and did over heat very easily. Changed initial and rest of timing on many cars and wallah.....idle till the cows came home and watched everyone else overheat. This is how I got performance BBC; in small cars to run fine fine in traffic...yes, even in Fox Bodies...oh wait, what ? LOl. Anyway, amazing how even a handful of degree in ign timing can reduce idle and low speed coolant temp. |
Yes I thought about propping the hood open but just don't like the look. I installed a cowl a few years back to help with air flow plus needed the added height for intake and elbow.
I would have to check my cal but if my memory is correct I have 25* at idle- 950-1000rpm (with idle stabilization on 20-30* to control rpm). |
dont know if it is possible with the computer you are running but could you set it up to advance the timing a few below a set rpm if the temp goes above a certain point. that is the way the old TCS (transmission controlled spark) system worked on early '70's cars. in high gear and/or above a set temp it would activate the vacuum advance to raise timing. in high gear it was for lower emissions and better economy and the temp would advance it so at idle if it got hot the added timing would help to cool it down.
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Originally Posted by compedgemarine
(Post 4683459)
dont know if it is possible with the computer you are running but could you set it up to advance the timing a few below a set rpm if the temp goes above a certain point. that is the way the old TCS (transmission controlled spark) system worked on early '70's cars. in high gear and/or above a set temp it would activate the vacuum advance to raise timing. in high gear it was for lower emissions and better economy and the temp would advance it so at idle if it got hot the added timing would help to cool it down.
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