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Originally Posted by bck
(Post 4697384)
I guess I was just curious as to whether it adds the timing incrementally as needed up to the max you have entered or if it adds the entire value at once when it hits the low rpm setting. Also was looking for a good starting point, just max it out or add 5° at a time and check results? Just trying to get a head start on some of the variables and issues I might encounter before its tied to the dock and I'm messing with it.
If you were to look at the data logs you`d see it it goes back and forth from your base timing to the max.. very quickly. It adds all the timing all at once and then back down again. I had 15* and then had it advance to 35* if I recall right . |
Originally Posted by bck
(Post 4697384)
I guess I was just curious as to whether it adds the timing incrementally as needed up to the max you have entered or if it adds the entire value at once when it hits the low rpm setting. Also was looking for a good starting point, just max it out or add 5° at a time and check results? Just trying to get a head start on some of the variables and issues I might encounter before its tied to the dock and I'm messing with it.
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Thanks for the info everyone. Ill be trying it out this weekend if the weather is decent.
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If youre worried about hurting the engine, dont. The extra timing at idle wont hurt anything.
The idea is to keep base timing low , say around 16-18*,in nuetral, no load on engine. Then as its put into gear , the additional timing kicks in below whatever rpm you set it to, say 650rpm. I would add 20* worth of addtl timing for stabilization. The box doesnt add 5,10,15, 18, if you have it set for 20*. It simply adds 20, removes 20, adds 20, removes 20. It happens quickly, and you wont notice it on your tachs or your butt. Last I heard, Bob Madera was the marine tech hotline for daytona sensors..Not even joking. Maybe he could be of help |
Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 4697991)
If youre worried about hurting the engine, dont. The extra timing at idle wont hurt anything.
The idea is to keep base timing low , say around 16-18*,in nuetral, no load on engine. Then as its put into gear , the additional timing kicks in below whatever rpm you set it to, say 650rpm. I would add 20* worth of addtl timing for stabilization. The box doesnt add 5,10,15, 18, if you have it set for 20*. It simply adds 20, removes 20, adds 20, removes 20. It happens quickly, and you wont notice it on your tachs or your butt. Last I heard, Bob Madera was the marine tech hotline for daytona sensors..Not even joking. Maybe he could be of help |
You won’t regret it. It doesn’t hunt at all. You don’t have to be rich at idle. |
I hope you have better luck than me. I think my CD-1 is bad, I'm getting pops and backfires when it's in idles control. As soon as I get above that range it smooths right out. My old MSD 6M with timing fixed at 34* ran better.
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Originally Posted by ThisIsLivin
(Post 4700073)
I hope you have better luck than me. I think my CD-1 is bad, I'm getting pops and backfires when it's in idles control. As soon as I get above that range it smooths right out. My old MSD 6M with timing fixed at 34* ran better.
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Checked and double checked the timing. You can see the timing bounce from 24* to 36* at idle speeds below my 800rpm requested value. I haven't had a chance to download the latest datalog yet. I have looked at previous logs and everything looks fine. The popping and bacfires are something new that started today. I programmed a new download that basically locks the timing at 34* and will try that without idle control.
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Well I tried turning off idle stabilization and setting the timing at 34*. It worked much better than with idle stabilization. As soon as the engine warmed up the missing and popping started over again. Concerned that the support e-mail is full and bounces every thing I send them. FYI. |
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