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Mercruiser 7.4L MPI slowing down

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Old 07-31-2019, 05:53 PM
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My loss of power occurred after running for 45 minutes to an hour at a steady 2800 to 3000 rpm. I think the cooling passages were so rusted in mine that the manifolds could not flow enough water to keep them cool. I finally hired a mercury tech. And we spend over an hour driving around Tampa bay in order to duplicate the problem. Once the loss of power occurred we raised the hatch, hit the risers with the heat gun and the temp was sky high especially on the starboard side, port side temp was slightly lower but still high. Engine temp continued to read around 175ish. I can’t remeber the exact temps as this was three years ago. When I removed the manifolds I saw that the starboard side was significantly more rusted/clogged than port, hence the temp variance. After I replace the exhaust and the problem was cured, you could place your hand on the risers after running for over an hour and it would be warm but not scolding
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Old 08-01-2019, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by BillK
If there is a possibility that the ECM is acting up when it gets hot I would get a can of Freeze it Spray and when it acts up try cooling off the ECM and see what happens. That is almost what it sounds like is happening even though you are not getting any codes.

Not sure where you can find it local, maybe a 2-way radio shop.
https://www.crcindustries.com/produc...-oz-14086.html
Originally Posted by wingless
Hopefully the faith that continues to be heaped onto these mechanics will bear fruit before the available funds are depleted.

All of the steps I've identified are possible for DIY at no cost.

Hoping for success would make me insane (more insane than usual).

Good luck!
I have some news. The mechanic ran it with a portable fuel tank connected and issue still occurred. He than hooked up a boat-in-a-box and the issue DID NOT OCCUR (for first time!). When the boat-in-a-box was hooked up they had to open the engine hatch so the hatch had been opened when it worked so they suspected (as wingless had continually suggested) that something is heating up.

They went back to the original boat wiring and ran it first with hatch down and waited for issue to occur. When it occurred they opened the hatch and it cleared it! So we have confirmation that it is a thermal issue as you put it.

I did ask them about the exhaust and risers and they ruled that out. They said that its either a coil or the ECM heating up. They are going to replace the coil first and hopefully it’s not the ECM.

I would have done that myself as far as testing but as far as replacing a coil or possibly the ECM (which I believe has to be reprogrammed) I’d rather have the mechanic do until I figure this stuff out on my own.

Now that we know it’s a thermal issue please let me know if you have any ideas or suggestions.

Thanks,

Scott
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Old 08-01-2019, 11:07 AM
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How long did it take to resume running properly after hatch was raised?
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Old 08-01-2019, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Scottd21




they opened the hatch and it cleared it!

Like Parasail asked, how long before it cleared up after they opened the hatch ?

Originally Posted by Scottd21
Now that we know it’s a thermal issue please let me know if you have any ideas or suggestions.


Yes Buy a can of the Freeze-it spray and try the ecm and the coil. See which one reacts.
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Old 08-01-2019, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by PARASAIL941
How long did it take to resume running properly after hatch was raised?
like right away I believe. Would take a couple of minutes to get it back to 3100 rpm but it worked right after

Last edited by Scottd21; 08-01-2019 at 11:25 AM.
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Old 08-01-2019, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Scottd21


like right away I believe.
That makes no sense. I spent 18 years working on electronics and Electronics dont just cool off immediately.

This is going to sound absolutely crazy and I don't know how your boat is set up but is there any chance that the air intakes to the engine bay are blocked off somehow and after running for a while it is just running out of air ?? Then when they open the hatch it lets enough air in for it to run right ? I know that sounds whacky but . . . . . . .
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Old 08-01-2019, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Scottd21


like right away I believe. Would take a couple of minutes to get it back to 3100 rpm but it worked right after
Sort of sounds more like fumes/lack of clean air doing it that fast
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Old 08-01-2019, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Scottd21


like right away I believe. Would take a couple of minutes to get it back to 3100 rpm but it worked right after
A couple of minutes makes more sense.
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Old 08-01-2019, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by BillK
A couple of minutes makes more sense.
i just asked the mechanic to confirm and he said not long just a couple of minutes. Is that enough time to cool off? He also said when it happened second time it got worse.
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Old 08-01-2019, 11:49 AM
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you need ventilation ( air flow ) through the hatch, prop it open about 3 inches and go run it
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