Replacement horn...is nothing simple?
 

I have a 1988 Formula 311 SR-1 and the horns sounded anemic so I ordered (what looked like) the closest replacements I could find. There was no connection diagram with the Seadog horns but the the hull has two sets of paired wires coming out so I snipped them and hooked the replacement horns up (as the "original" horns were hooked up). (Picture below)

When I pushed the horn button all I heard was an electronic noise/click but no real horn sound. I assumed that maybe the horns had a polarity issue, so I tried a couple of combinations. I discovered that when I hooked only on of the horns up (to either set of wires coming out of the hull) it worked as it should (so individually they both work)...but when I hooked both horns up to either one wire (coming out of the hull) or to separate wires coming out of the hull...NOTHING (But the click/electronic noise).
Any suggestions?
Could the horns be drawing to many amps from the "tired" electricals...I will say that the wiring looks in great shape.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Tomhttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...29f3d25e05.jpg

Use a voltmeter and find out if your getting any voltage and how much

Good idea...
I checked the horns by hooking them both directly to 12V (my truck battery)...and they sounded fine.
I will check for sure BUT I believe both wires coming out of the boat hull have enough voltage to run either horn but not both horns...so I THINK its some sort of amp draw issue or some current restriction???
I pulled and reset the circuit breaker for the horn circuit (thinking that it might not be at 100%)...but that did not help the situation.
I am always stumped by electrical stuff...as a mechanical engineering student, I had to take one electrical class (TWICE)!

Many times the boat manufactures use to small a wire to carry the load, but knowing what the voltage is during activation will indicate what the issue would be

No post.

Undersized wires, multiple splices added over time and a bit of corrosion can greatly reduce the voltage actually getting to the accessory - in this case your horns

Plus, hunk of schit bottom of the barrel manufacturing.

Replaced my horn with a Hella. Good company right ? Lasted the test 'blow' and that's it. Checked reviews on Amazon and that's what most reviews said. Doh !

Thanks all!

Newest information...I get 13+ volts out of each wire when the horn button is depressed.
Also, as I have stated, each horn works individually on either wire coming out of the boat hull BUT when I connect both up I get a kind of electric "thump" and no horn noise. However, when I have one horn hooked up and I depress the horn button (and the single horn works)...WHILE continuing to depress the horn button, if I attach the second set of wires to the horn, I get both horns working as designed/desired. If I let the horn button go and retry it...nothing.
Its like the first horn has to be up and running before the 2nd horn will work.
I hypothesize that the initial amp draw of the two horns simultaneously is to much for some component of the distribution???
Next, I will try jumpering across the horn button to see if that is the weak link...any other suggestions out there?
Thanks,Tom

delete duplicate

Might be missing a ground if they are both hot

Is your horn listed here?
Sea-Dog : Quality Marine, Industrial and Rigging Hardware

Yes Sea Dog brand

On a side note. I LOVE the title of your thread, I too find the easiest tasks wind up becoming half day ordeals and have coined the saying. "Nothing Ever Easy."

Yes...downloaded, thanks!

I got air too...but just had the opportunity to TRY to make these work.

Two Questions - have you identified which grey wire is your Ground and which is hot in order to properly wire the horns?

2) Did you attempt to adjust the original horns? ( remove cover and there is a phillips screw with a locking nut on the horn... tun in or out to change pitch of the horns?

So, I deduced that the horn button might be intermittent so I got a replacement at the home repair store. While removing the old button I touched two hot wires that popped the horn circuit breaker. When I reset the breaker (which I had manually pulled and reset at least 3-4 times) I noticed a distinct "click" and the original horn button and new replacement dual horns started working as advertised.
I'm guessing that the contacts in the circuit breaker were contaminated???
Anyway, horns are working and thanks to all for the help.
Tom

I don't suggest working on any Chrysler products then. :) Mitsubishi should be without question. That's just the start of my list. :)

frankly, I have a 30 year old formula and it's a testament to the previous owners the electricals look surprisingly good. So far it's been stuff exposed to the air / atmosphere not the stuff behind panels or inside boxes.

Agreed...I am glad the hydraulic steering was done before I go the boat as that looks like a pain.
Check you messages about trying to get together in Sept.
Tom