Water Temperature won't get hot enough??
06-27-2020, 08:25 AM
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Sorry about that, SB.
See below:
Originally Posted by SB View Post
Not sure why you are so against the factory recirculation system as it would fix the coolant temp and etc issues you are facing.
I'm not against the factory system. It was only in the fall that I realized (suspected) that the water temp was behind the issue, So I came here to see what could be done with current system, if anything. I put the boat away in the fall with a plan of trying one other thing in the spring, which I just recently did. That seems to have helped. I'll know more on my next run. If I'm not satisfied, I will install a recirculating pump.
Yes, I have witnessed the difference in idle and planing rpm aluminum vs cast iron heads cause in terms of quality. The fuel puddles and has less vapor to ignite when head is cold. Wet fuel does ignite well or at all. However, adding some more initial timing and just a 1/8-1/4 turn more idle fuel then best hot engine idle setting solves the rougher idle and low rpm planing cough. Massive difference in cold start and drivesbility.
Off hand, initial timing is around 15 - 16, Total advance is 34, as that is where it was tuned on the dyno. I changed the bushing to allow me to advance the initial timing as much as possible without increasing the total timing. Engine starts immediately. No issue there.
It runs rich at idle, except for when the heads are hot, then it smooths out.
What is your initial timing ?
Stated above.
BTW: many here with roots superchargers and big cammed engines run a ton of initial timing fir a reason. Think of the distance of cold aluminum surfaces on roots blown motors and tunnel rams.
Agreed.
See below:
Originally Posted by SB View Post
Not sure why you are so against the factory recirculation system as it would fix the coolant temp and etc issues you are facing.
I'm not against the factory system. It was only in the fall that I realized (suspected) that the water temp was behind the issue, So I came here to see what could be done with current system, if anything. I put the boat away in the fall with a plan of trying one other thing in the spring, which I just recently did. That seems to have helped. I'll know more on my next run. If I'm not satisfied, I will install a recirculating pump.
Yes, I have witnessed the difference in idle and planing rpm aluminum vs cast iron heads cause in terms of quality. The fuel puddles and has less vapor to ignite when head is cold. Wet fuel does ignite well or at all. However, adding some more initial timing and just a 1/8-1/4 turn more idle fuel then best hot engine idle setting solves the rougher idle and low rpm planing cough. Massive difference in cold start and drivesbility.
Off hand, initial timing is around 15 - 16, Total advance is 34, as that is where it was tuned on the dyno. I changed the bushing to allow me to advance the initial timing as much as possible without increasing the total timing. Engine starts immediately. No issue there.
It runs rich at idle, except for when the heads are hot, then it smooths out.
What is your initial timing ?
Stated above.
BTW: many here with roots superchargers and big cammed engines run a ton of initial timing fir a reason. Think of the distance of cold aluminum surfaces on roots blown motors and tunnel rams.
Agreed.
