Water Temperature won't get hot enough??
10-07-2019, 11:38 AM
#31
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You have an IR Gun, check each leg of the cross over to see if you are experiencing unbalanced flow. I have the same setup and it works perfect, although I added a -10 line from the back of the intake to the front intake cross over to bleed off any steam and to insure good water flow to the heads. I have checked my temps with a good IR gun and my temps are within 1-2 degrees everywhere. What is the water temp you are running in? I was out last weekend in 55* water and idling down the river, I barely got to 115*. Once I got to the lake and pushed it hard it warmed right up. Water temp was 155* and oil temp was 250*. Yes I know my oil cooler is a little small.
Crossover temp was 98. Maybe 1 to 2 degrees difference from each end. Head temps are 15 to 20 degrees difference. That's not uncommon, but if yours are within 2 degrees, that's pretty good!
Because you installed a hose from front to back on the manifold to release steam pockets, did you still drill your thermostat?
10-07-2019, 09:07 PM
#32
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Yes that is correct. There must be some sort of imbalance. I have tried holes in the thermostat and different size bushings in the bypass to restrict some water. I have talked to other people that have no problem with the same setup. Don’t get it.
I just put my hand on one side of the crossover, and one side is cold and the other is hot.
I just put my hand on one side of the crossover, and one side is cold and the other is hot.
10-08-2019, 04:39 AM
#33
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You will never stabalize with a crossover, some guys have been able to but it's rare, my boat has had no stat and crossover since new in 1987, no issues from it... I tried to re invent wheel like you and now it's back to the way it has been, I have a max of 75 degree water temps and typically less, oil temps 180-190 AFTER cooler, why bother it seems good from factory, I will see 100 water temp maybe at best, 110 at idle after a hard run, don't mess with what works..
10-08-2019, 06:50 AM
#34
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If you want Automotive warm up times and higher temps , you will have to put on a Circulator Pump .
The water temps inside an engine , with a crossover , are very uneven at low speeds.
The water temps inside an engine , with a crossover , are very uneven at low speeds.
10-08-2019, 07:28 AM
#35
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The lake temp was 58 on my last and final run.
Crossover temp was 98. Maybe 1 to 2 degrees difference from each end. Head temps are 15 to 20 degrees difference. That's not uncommon, but if yours are within 2 degrees, that's pretty good!
Because you installed a hose from front to back on the manifold to release steam pockets, did you still drill your thermostat?
Crossover temp was 98. Maybe 1 to 2 degrees difference from each end. Head temps are 15 to 20 degrees difference. That's not uncommon, but if yours are within 2 degrees, that's pretty good!
Because you installed a hose from front to back on the manifold to release steam pockets, did you still drill your thermostat?
10-08-2019, 05:19 PM
#36
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Do you have the right sender?
I just had mine on the Dyno and it proved that the builder didn't match the sender to the gauge. Just ordered new senders from CP this afternoon
I just had mine on the Dyno and it proved that the builder didn't match the sender to the gauge. Just ordered new senders from CP this afternoon
10-08-2019, 05:51 PM
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I assume that it is, as the gauge correlates to the IR reading that was taken near the temperature probe.
10-08-2019, 05:53 PM
#38
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I have a Stewart racing thermostat that has 3 3/16” holes in it. Based on all the threads on the subject, I think I’m one of the very few that has a crossover working well with a thermostat. Maybe it’s the extra lines I put in from the back to the front of the intake.
10-08-2019, 07:53 PM
#39
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Sorry, just checked and I don't have any photos of the current configuration. The boat is at my Beach House which is 285 miles away. The worst part is my schedule is so busy, I won't get back up there till the middle of November. I can describe what I did, maybe that will help. I have a Brodix HV2000 intake and it has provisions to drill and tape the intake at the rear where the intake covers the water jacket openings in the cylinder heads. I had it drilled and tapped before I assembled the motor for 1/2" NPT. I installed a -10 - 1/2" NPT 90 in the those new rear ports. At the front on the intake manifold where you have your sensors, I installed 1/2" NPT T's with the side port towards the intake. I then ran a -10 line from the rear to the front and put the sensors in the front facing port of the T's. Hope this helps. All I know is that every time I check engine temps after running it hard, is they are even everywhere, front, back, block, heads. I have a hard time getting it warm when the water is real cold, anything below 60mph and it's below 150*. But once the water gets to 70* it runs right at 155*-160* at any planning speed.
10-08-2019, 09:37 PM
#40
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Sorry, just checked and I don't have any photos of the current configuration. The boat is at my Beach House which is 285 miles away. The worst part is my schedule is so busy, I won't get back up there till the middle of November. I can describe what I did, maybe that will help. I have a Brodix HV2000 intake and it has provisions to drill and tape the intake at the rear where the intake covers the water jacket openings in the cylinder heads. I had it drilled and tapped before I assembled the motor for 1/2" NPT. I installed a -10 - 1/2" NPT 90 in the those new rear ports. At the front on the intake manifold where you have your sensors, I installed 1/2" NPT T's with the side port towards the intake. I then ran a -10 line from the rear to the front and put the sensors in the front facing port of the T's. Hope this helps. All I know is that every time I check engine temps after running it hard, is they are even everywhere, front, back, block, heads. I have a hard time getting it warm when the water is real cold, anything below 60mph and it's below 150*. But once the water gets to 70* it runs right at 155*-160* at any planning speed.
Your explanation is clear. Thank you for that.
Separate from my lack of heating issue (issue to me), I like the idea of running a line front to back, it would certainly assist in balancing overall temperature between the heads, block and intake.
