blown injector driver in ecm
10-13-2019, 02:34 PM
#12
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Also when my key was off I heard some noise from speakers I was thinking maybe I had a bad key switch maybe stereo is hooked up improperly causing this issue, injectors are 17104288 and the new ones ohmed out to 2 ohms so they should be good
10-14-2019, 05:35 AM
#16
10-14-2019, 08:39 AM
#17
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My amateur suggestion would inspect injection harness which may even require removing the wrap and look for wires rubbed through? In the auto field we would also do an overlay from the ECM to the injectors? And... once running compare AMP draw for each injector when running.
10-14-2019, 09:15 AM
#18
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On a boat i find it hard to do....unless you are shorting wires on the harness somehow...on a car...well that can be easy with today's electronics! I used to do aftermarket acc installs back in 96/97 for a company that did nothing but new car sales at dealerships. I would be doing anything from cruise controls to sunroofs to alarm/remote starts etc....anyway when i was going through their training program they made us buy a special test probe that was computer safe. I could in theory probe any wire and see if there was a positive or negative supply on the line..if you tried doing that with a standard old school test light you could easily fry the ecm or set off things like the door locks or even the airbags! I was actually at a dealership once where a tech blew up a side curtain airbag by probing the wrong wire!! Luckily for him he wasn't anywhere near it when it went off but i guarantee he had to change his shorts after that one! 
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-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
10-14-2019, 09:52 AM
#19
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one is electrical noise EM / RFI also this can overtime cause sensor failures inruturn can cause ECM failures. THE IAC is a great example here. - also resistance in voltage supply - splicing into voltage sources, voltage spikes - Alternator drains - and or alternators can not supply enough amps. and or its runs hot because its overloaded. - excessive heat. Stereo stuff needs NOT to be use for the engine side battery period. .They need a separate battery source..
Wrong engine side battery. used - many do not even use the correct battery for their app - wrong cabling. - wrong terminals - wing nuts - ECMs hate all this especially LOW or High voltage or voltage spikes also electrical NOISE = RFI & EMI. - Most stereo store bought cabling / terninals / wiring offer ZERO corrosion resistance. Corrosion for electrical paths cause HUGE resistance. All ecm s need proper steady voltage and at all times without any disruptions. Many boaters tap into the engine side power sources and or at the ignition switch - All marine OEMs totally spell out NOT to do so.. Many OEM service manuals lists precautions of what not to do to the engine side using EFI including with batteries to use for their apps. . I think that's enough info to prove my point here.
Wrong engine side battery. used - many do not even use the correct battery for their app - wrong cabling. - wrong terminals - wing nuts - ECMs hate all this especially LOW or High voltage or voltage spikes also electrical NOISE = RFI & EMI. - Most stereo store bought cabling / terninals / wiring offer ZERO corrosion resistance. Corrosion for electrical paths cause HUGE resistance. All ecm s need proper steady voltage and at all times without any disruptions. Many boaters tap into the engine side power sources and or at the ignition switch - All marine OEMs totally spell out NOT to do so.. Many OEM service manuals lists precautions of what not to do to the engine side using EFI including with batteries to use for their apps. . I think that's enough info to prove my point here.
Last edited by BUP; 10-15-2019 at 11:02 AM.
