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Sending units
Not sure of the year of the gauges and of course with the confusion of two Gaffrig companies I dont know which I have or which to call for assistance. I'd really like to just pick one up locally without having to call and wait/ pay for shipping on such a cheap part. So how do I get the correct sender for a Gaffrig water temp gauge? I only want one to eliminate an incorrect sender being a problem with a possible cooling issue I'm trying to resolve.
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https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b8d852aaf6.jpg
look around the outside edge of the gauges face...you would have to look under the rim of the gauge to see it...but the livorsi stuff will be labeled as such. or the older ones may even be labeled as autometer....should be able to narrow it down from there. :) |
Even if I determine which gauge it is I still need to know what sender. Hoping to just pick one up locally. The issue I'm having is temperature extremes. When the engine is just warm I don't get a reading. When the engine is hot the gauge rapidly gets to 200. There's no in between. Trying to figure out if I possibly have the wrong senders. I don't really want to call the company and try to get them to tell me the specifics of the sender so I can get it locally. I also dont want to pay for a sender and for shipping and wait a week to just do a simple test on a cheap part. I have an ohm meter to test my current senders but not sure what reading I should get for these gauges to work. Figured buying what I know to be the correct sender would be easier than messing with an ohm meter at various temps. My guess is the gauges are from the 90's and since they are still good probably from the original Gaffrig when they were a known good product? I'll check the face later today.
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are there no numbers on the sender ?
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I will look at it closer in a couple hrs. If there are numbers it would tell me what I don't want to buy, not sure how many options that leaves.
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I’m dealing with the same thing, but Faria gauges. I thought I found the right sender, but like you it takes forever to show on the gauge and then it races all the way to overheating. I am going to get a variable resistor and determine what resistance is the gauge is looking for at various temperatures, and then find a sender (which have published resistance to temperature curves) and hope that works. Major PITA |
bc,
I would go down to the local parts store and buy a cheap mechanical gauge for $20 Run it out through the engine cover and have somebody watch it for you while you run the boat. That way you will eliminate the wiring and power source as a possible issue too. |
Sounds like you have it hooked up to a temp “switch” instead of a temp sender. In other words, the switch is normally open then closes at a predetermined temperature. |
Post a pic of the gauge. I had a similar issue with one of my Gaffrig/Livorsi water temp gauges. It was a bad gauge.
Gaffrig Precision Instruments is now Livorsi Gaffrig Performance is the current Gaffrig. |
GSOT1/8
https://www.cpperformance.com/p-1307...si-gauges.aspx that would be my guess. maybe you can find what the ohms are somewhere Payupchump might be right thou. Maybe it`s a warning sender |
Actually this one is probably the correct one: https://www.cpperformance.com/p-1307...si-gauges.aspx
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Originally Posted by payuppsucker
(Post 4711698)
Sounds like you have it hooked up to a temp “switch” instead of a temp sender. In other words, the switch is normally open then closes at a predetermined temperature. |
This whole thing started because of the engines inability to build any heat in the oil or water despite having thermostats in both systems (water has a crossover with bypass and stat which I know some people dislike because of these problems, but I'm trying to learn exactly why some work and some don't before abandoning the setup). I initially thought it would just be a matter of selecting the correct t-stat to get some water temp, so I went out with 3 different stats to get some temp readings and couldn't get the gauge to even move. The gauge starts at 100° so I was either under 100 or there was a gauge / sender problem. Just for the hell of it I decided to run without the t-stat to see what would happen. In the few minutes it took to get the boat on plane and trimmed out the temp gauge was at 200°. I could tell by touching the engine that it was definitely hotter but this seems a bit extreme to go from <100 with a stat to >200 without one in a couple mins. This is why I was looking to rule out the sender as a problem. After going out again today with a temp probe I'm inclined to believe the sender is correct and those are the actual temps.
- - if anyone has any thoughts on why I can only get 80° with a stat but hit 200° without one and nothing in between I'd like to know. - As far as the sending units go, it would still be nice to figure out exactly what the correct one is for this type gauge in a non marine application so it can be purchased locally and not have to go mail order through CP. - Griff, all the electric gauges say Gaffrig Precision Instruments. All the mechanical gauges just say Gaffrig which I thought was interesting that they were labeled differently. |
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...616e36e33f.jpg
Sorry about the terrible photo but battery was too low for flash so i had to try shining a flashlight on it. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a78f24eb3f.jpg This is the t-stat housing which has a diverter in it so bypass water doesn't go right on the thermostat. In theory... |
Originally Posted by bck
(Post 4711749)
As far as the sending units go, it would still be nice to figure out exactly what the correct one is for this type gauge in a non marine application so it can be purchased locally and not have to go mail order through CP.
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Originally Posted by BillK
(Post 4711756)
What if there is not such a thing ? If I was having a problem I would want to make sure I had the correct sending unit. You would have already had it by now if you ordered it from CP.
- So the end result is my senders are good but I'll use the winter to look into them and find out what they actually are just out curiosity if nothing else. I seem to just be on the extreme ends of the cooling problems people typically complain of when running combinations of stats / bypasses / crossovers. As a side note, I also changed props and bumping the rpm up 500-600 rpm brought the oil temp from too low to register up to 200°. |
Those are similar to my gauges, except the position of the numbers. Mine use a stock Merc sender. If you look at mine, you will see my 165* position is the same as your 200* location. So, yes I do think you probably have the wrong sender for your gauge. If you pull the gauge it should have a sticker on the side that tells you what ohm sender it needs.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...109f6804d6.jpg |
If you go to the Industrial Series gauges, the 100-250* gauge has the same layout as yours and it should use the same sender. http://www.livorsi.com/pdf/lmi%20volume%2018_rev5.pdf
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I'll pull the gauge and see if I can find the sticker you mention. Thanks for the info.
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When I wanted to verify temps I`d boil some water on the stove let it cool a bit , put in a $5 thermometer and the sender and see if they read the same
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Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL
(Post 4711888)
When I wanted to verify temps I`d boil some water on the stove let it cool a bit , put in a $5 thermometer and the sender and see if they read the same
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