Hard warm start vintage BBF
 

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I am getting all the mechanicals sorted out on the restoration of my 63 Rayson Craft and everything is good except for hard warm start. Idle in and out of gear is good. Performance accelerating and otherwise is okay. After the engine has been shut off for 10 or so minutes it is very hard to start. I have to crack the throttle blades then when it fires I have to pump the throttle til it clears out. I have checked inside the carb barrels for fuel leaking out after shut off and I can't see any. It really does not seem like a vapor lock condition to me either.
Specs
460 Ford with Edelbrock Torquer Package good compression
Quick Fuel 750 Marine Carb new
vintage Mallory distributor 12 degrees initial timing
I plan on changing to a DUI or Pertronix distributor because I can't even find parts for the very old distributor
Thanks

That is cool looking!!!

Evel Knievel's old boat?? it has that vintage aura to it... Sweet boat !

Usually Choke wiring/setting or ignition issues.

Exactly how is your choke wired ? It has to be a 12 volt source and activated when key is turned to run.

Is your dist a points system ?

Probably a long shot, but a buddy of mine chased a hot start issue and ultimating realized it was the winter blend fuel he was putting in it....

fuel pressure bleeding off, sure sounds like heat soak prevalent on the EFI engines, have you tried lifting the hatch when stopped and then refire ? .........very cool boat

Similar symptoms to the exhaust leaking water in also.

I haven't checked voltage to choke to verify, but I will.
I just pulled a barefooter when it was just over freezing and still the same start. There is a lot of ventilation to the engine. I have raised the engine hatch and still the same.
Water ingestion did occur to me. How would I diagnose this?
Yes very old ignition points, condenser, and ballast.


Boat was a ski race rig.

It is really enjoyable to cruise around in and ski behind. I can't stand the redneck buckets and want to put a good paint job on it. I have filled several holes and reglassed the nose.

Anyone who hasn't driven one and wants to, catch me at Lake Cumberland.

I would replace points and condenser just cause they're old. Ballast is probably OK but should be measured and inspected visually. If it's still doing it, double check for fuel leaking inside carb bores with throttle blades wide open immediately after shutdown. Have the air cleaner off before shutdown and have a bright flashlight light ready. That's what it sounds like to me. Check float levels on the water.

BTW, you stated you have to crack the throttle to start, which helps when flooded.
Pumping the throttle only helps if running too lean.
Shouldn't have to do both.