I'm an "Amsoil" guy and yesterday I got the new copy of their rag. It has a full page with 3-4 different tests comparing Amsoil to Mobil-1 Tri-Syn. If anyone is interested I can try to scan and post.

Oh and yes, Amsoil came out on top in each test.

::EDIT::

Ok, I don't have to scan anything, it's on their website:

Amsoil vs. Mobil 1

IT IS FOR SURE A ROLLER MOTOR ,SYN IS THE ONLY THING I'D USE IN IT ,IT WILL PROTECT IT JUST LIKE THE C5R AND LS1 VETTE ROLLER MOTORS COME FROM FACTORY AND BUILDERS AS WE TALKED ABOUT ABOVE ,,HOPE THIS HELPS

This was a different comparison that I saw, but thanks for the info !

BOTH ARE GOOD OILS MUCH BETTER THAN CONV.,

BUY AND USE EITHER ONE

Does Mobil 1 "slip past the rings" on older engines,I had a car loose 2 qts from NYC to the Hamptons,next weekend I had Rotella in it and didn't loose a drop!?

HEY SIX ,ALL OIL BUILDS DEPOSITS AROUND RINGS ,ECT. AND IF YOU CHANGE THE DEPOSIT FROM ONE OIL MAYBE CLEANED BY THE NEW OILS DETERGENTS AND THE MOTOR WILL FOR SURE USE OIL FOR A PERIOD OF TIME UNTIL THE NEW OIL CAN BUILD UP ITS OWN DEPOSITS AND THUS SEAL OFF THE CONDITION ,SO THIS WAS A GREAT QUESTION
IF YOU KEEP USING THE NEW OIL IT WILL STOP THERE ARE ALLOT OF THINGS THAT DETERMINE HOW LONG IT WILL TAKE THE MOST IMPORTANT BEING HOW MANY MILES OR HRS. ON MOTOR BUT IT WILL STOP !!
SYN. ALL SAY COMPATABLE WITH ALL OILS AND THEY USUALLY DON'T DO THIS ,BUT IT STILL HAPPENS ALLOT

HOPE THIS HELPS HAVE A GOOD ONE

Thanks Bobby,it's a 1988 Mecedes 190E with 60,000, I'm postive I filled the engine to the full mark but after the trip the yellow oil light(not the red one) on the dash blinked on a turn,two qt's low!!

YEP M/B ARE KNOW FOR THIS THEY ARE KILLER CARS THOUGH ,IT WILL STOP USEING IT IF YOU LEAVE IT IN OR USE AN HAVE SYN.
AND HALF CONV. LIKE VALVOLINE MAKES IT SHOULD WORK BETTER YET STILL GIVE GREAT PROTECTION
SEE YA

I too have been running Kendall GT-1 40wt. and have a moisture problem. Changed oil and filter frequently and run a Mercury Racing oil thermostat. I have installed two oil temp sending units and a switch to monitor oil temp at hottest point (into thermostat) and coolest point (out of cooler). This thermostat appears to work perfectly and starts to open at 170-180* (it is never fully closed and some oil is always routed through the cooler). When running hard I have seen a 50-60* difference from hot side to cold side (260* hot and 210-230* cold) so yes folks, the coolers do work.

Sorry, back to the moisture problem. I had noticed milky oil on upper portion of the dipstick but saw no other evidence of moisture and thought it was just condensation trapped in the dipstick tube since it's not vented. When I tore the engine down for freshen-up there was considerable moisture evident under the valve covers and in the valley. I went to great pains to thoroughly test for every possibe cause. Both sides of block (GM Bowtie) were good. (Even tested blind headbolt bores for pinholes.) Heads (aluminum and machined for Loc Wire gaskets) were tank tested and defect free. At disassembly, the intake gasket appeared completely sealed with no signs of failure. Oil cooler also tested OK. Engine (540 inch/630HP N.A.) has a good breather setup but no PCV valve.

Basically, we could find no reason for the moisture other than condensation. But, with the above mentioned oil temps, condensation should not be an issue. Now I'm wondering if the formulation of the Kendall GT-1 might be contributing to, if not causing the problem? I'd sure like to hear from anyone with ideas/similar experience.

Dr.Nautica,

I was just curious of what kind of aluminum heads you are running, valve size, what kind of port work if any, and what the specs were on the cam? The reason why I am asking is because my 540's made the same HP as yours @5400rpm (on the dyno) last year and I just wanted to compare notes a little. Thanks

BTW, I think I will be switching to Amsoil 10w40 synthetic.