This is my first carburated blown application. Crazy me but I think that Injected is easier to tune, especially on a dyno.

What would be the combination of parts suggested, do I need to change distributors?

What I have done that works real good it I use the Thunderbolt Distributor, and the Daytona Sensors coil and control unit,I use O2 sensors(reading off a stand alone unit)to set carb jetting and make a timing curve that works for my setup. I use the Idle stabilizing feature to kick up timing at idle under 700 RPMs, works great for my blower set up.
Now one Note these units where bought a few years back when quality May have been better, I can not speck for what is selling today

we use a lot of delco EST systems for most everything they are very hot stone reliable no moving parts and idle with a lot of timing and that really smooths out the idle on fishing boats that idle for 6 to 12 hrs a day and use cap and rotor available almost anywhere. when my sons msd acted up we dropped in an est and dang if it did not run better cleaner more stable idle they have a very hot spark one thing most don,t know is MSD,s multi spark feature is turned off at a pretty low rpm below 3000 i think

Abones what is your total timing at WOT trimmed out. Assuming your at or around 6,400 + -. Just curious. I've got a number in mind and wondering how close I am.
Thanks,
John

Your definately right btw in regards to the tbi durability. I honestly never had one go bad. Are all the tbi Hall effect?

All the ones that i have had my hands on are hall effect. The timing table I built for my 502, Procharged engine is base 15* then slowly proceeds to 28*at 4500, 30* at 5000, and at that point proceeds to go to 35* to 5500 and stays at 35* up to rev limiter at 6300. for idle quality i bump it from 15* to 30* below 700rpm (putting in gear) once the rpm goes above 700 it goes back to 15* and does its thing through out the a rpm range. no need with my set up to drop timing off as boost goes up, like we did in the past without very efficient intercoolers.

tks for the info. I just wasn't sure if all the tbi were Hall effect but figured as much but Tks for clearing that up. Regards to the total advanced if I appreciate the info on that. Didn't mean to interfere with OP but just curious. I didn't look up old thread like a couple years ago but I have no idea why I thought MT was near 41 under certain conditions that fit well with his sc 420 mega 468 builds. Please no one quote me on that though. I could see where factors such as hull efficiency, weight, engine temps, EGT's, detonation, etc all play a factor. I look forward to setting up my Daytona Sensors and will likely be reaching out to you. My what were 871 SC builds went to NA builds however still glad I have them.

I've kinda been out of the loop for a while on a lot of this stuff and not sure if any of you guys can readily answer my question, but I have some Merc Thunderbolt Ignition Distributors from a 1995 boat w/Merc Bulldog engines, According to what is being said by you guys within this thread, it sounds like the Daytona Sensor CD-1 Marine ignition box and the Merc Thunderbolt distributor are compatible together as a working unit,----but what if you add an MSD Crank Trigger into the mix along with the Merc Thunderbolt distributor and Daytona Sensor Marine box?------will it work together?.... or is a special pick-up sensor needed for the crank trigger when using it with a Merc Thunderbolt Ignition Distributor that has Hall Effect? Thanks in advance

here you go,figure 2 page 3,,it can be done

http://nebula.wsimg.com/15bae9a38be4...&alloworigin=1

Wow Bill....you nailed it !!!---thank you! :party-smiley-048: