270 Laser twin chine walk
#1
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270 Laser twin chine walk
I just upgraded from my 222 spectra to a 96 270 laser with twin 350 mag mpi gen+, bravo 1’s, 23p mirages, 280 k planes and latham hydraulic steering. The boat runs great up to about 64-65. Get closer to 70 and it comes unglued, got real bad side to side and uncontrollable one time. Dump the tabs to 4 and it gets better but is still right on the edge of letting loose again. This is my first twin boat, any ideas on how to better this problem? Check drive alignment? Make sure drives are trimming the same? Less trim?
#2
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Like the boat.
sorry no help. I have a single eng 270 and it’s done about 65 anyway. Check Powerquest boat owners group on face book. Lot of 270 owners there.
sorry no help. I have a single eng 270 and it’s done about 65 anyway. Check Powerquest boat owners group on face book. Lot of 270 owners there.
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ShortCircuit (06-17-2020)
#3
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Each hull acts differently to trim and chine walk that will take careful testing on your part. Just remember that to control chine walk it's like driving a car in a slide, turn into it and it will go away. Try swapping props and just reverse the controls to see if that calms it down. Also check the bottom of the boat to see if it's straight. What type of steering do you have? Once you hit the 60-65 mark you need to be running full hydraulic with external cylinders. I had a single cable driving my hydraulic system on my boat and it was a mess trying to control it above 70. I went to a full hydraulic and that made a huge change.
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Gimme Fuel (06-18-2020), TomZ (06-22-2020)
#4
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Also, don't be afraid to try different props if you can borrow some to test. Props can have a huge effect on handling characteristics. However I believe the 270 and the 290 are known for chine walking.
External hydraulic steering is a must for control, stock cable helm and internal ram setups have far too much play and just exacerbate the problem. Essentially you are using steering wheel input to "balance" the boat on the V. To do this takes constant steering wheel input, and I mean constant. You will develop a feel after practice.
I suspect since majority of those boats were singles, that your twin setup is extra azz heavy, or the extra spinning prop is providing too much stern lift causing the instability. Does the boat respond well to trim at speed (as in will pick the bow up significantly) or does it stay fairly level and tend to bow-steer a bit at speeds?
External hydraulic steering is a must for control, stock cable helm and internal ram setups have far too much play and just exacerbate the problem. Essentially you are using steering wheel input to "balance" the boat on the V. To do this takes constant steering wheel input, and I mean constant. You will develop a feel after practice.
I suspect since majority of those boats were singles, that your twin setup is extra azz heavy, or the extra spinning prop is providing too much stern lift causing the instability. Does the boat respond well to trim at speed (as in will pick the bow up significantly) or does it stay fairly level and tend to bow-steer a bit at speeds?
#5
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The props are spinning outwards and the steering is cable back to 2 external rams. Today when I pulled the boat I noticed the drives were not trimmed to the same height, could this be adding to the issue? The boat does respond well to trim but seems to bow slap when trimmed. Would it be stupid to put a couple hundred pounds in the bow and try it?
#6
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Most important thing is to lose the cable. I had the same setup on mine, it doesn't work, steering has to be tight. Do you have trim indicators? If not get them, that's number 2. Then and only then try switching props to see how that affects the ride. Then go to 4 blade props, they will improve handling. Different props make a huge difference. I have had 4 different 4 blade props on mine and the difference was significant. Do not add weight to the boat, that will only mask the problem and could cause some serious bow steering.
#7
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I do have trim indicators, need to be adjusted, stbd needle comes up way before the port. What all do I need to go full hydraulic? Helm and lines? Will have to do some reading on that. Gonna ask around and hopefully find a set of 22p bravo 1’s to try.
#8
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Contact Paul Everett at Everett Performance, [email protected]. That's where I bought my kit. I told him what I had and he put all the pieces together including the mandrels for making the high pressure hoses. Huge difference, you will love it.
#10
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I emailed paul, no response yet. Anyone ever used the inside hydraulic kits Hardin marine sells? What’s the best way to go about getting mechanical indicators for my drives? My drives are aligned perfectly and have no toe in or out, is this correct or should I adjust? Does everyone usually try to run their k planes fat with the hull at wot on flat water or down a hair? Really happy with this boat, trying to do whatever it takes to make it handle safely over 65mph