ancho

Is this an acceptable method for installation of starter bolts? As you can see, the threads sheared off in the block and the rest of the bolt fell out into the bilge.

F-2 Speedy

iTrader: (6)

NO

snapmorgan

iTrader: (2)

No, but it probably didn't cause the failure. Probably just a cheap starter bolt or it was over tightened at one time or it came loose. Most auto parts stores have a nice selection of different length starter bolts. Once you get the threads out of the block.

ALL_IN!

iTrader: (1)

Maybe somebody told the guy 'you need to shim it'. lol

OldSchool

BillK

That was the incorrect length bolt for the starter. The block has a small counterbore where the bolt goes in. The knurled portion of the bolt goes into that counterbore and keeps the starter from moving around. There are three different length bolts for Chevy engines. You have to make sure to use the correct ones. Also if you have the old style starter you need to make sure the brace is on the front.

SB

iTrader: (1)

Not Approved. McGyver doesn't even use hardware store zinc washers for his starter bolts.

zz28zz

Wait a min..Shouldn't the knurling be worn evenly? Looks like just the top half is worn. This makes me wonder if there was an old bolt broken off deep inside the hole that never was removed and this (correct length?) bolt was loaded up with washers so it wouldn't bottom out. Once you get the current broken bolt out of the block, verify the threads in the block are good all the way up.

BillK

Actually it is probably about right. The knurled portion only goes into the block about 1/4 inch.

zz28zz

I don't have a starter handy to take a pic of but here's a pic I found after a brief search, (copied pic from here https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/4...oblems.457586/ )



Half of the knurling is supposed to center the bolt in the counterbore and the other half centers the bolt in the starter correct?
If my theory was correct abt something blocking the lower portion of hole, the portion of the knurling that's supposed to be in the block would be in contact with the starter and the part of the knurling that supposed to be in contact with the starter would be touching nothing. This would allow starter to move around, create a stress point where the failure occurred and explain the wear seen on the knurling, no??
It would be nice to see a pic of the other part of the bolt that stayed in block (as it was found).