Oil pressure loss
#14
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Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 11
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From: SE Washington State
I’m not sure what happened to the previous engine- I bought the boat with no power. The cooler I had on the shelf.
The remote filter base is a Merc. I used the threaded block mount with bypass, and the conical style cap. I tosses the OE hoses and made the -10 AN hoses to the remote filters.
I’d feel like a complete ass if I plumbed the hoses backwards, but it’s worth taking a look.
The remote filter base is a Merc. I used the threaded block mount with bypass, and the conical style cap. I tosses the OE hoses and made the -10 AN hoses to the remote filters.
I’d feel like a complete ass if I plumbed the hoses backwards, but it’s worth taking a look.
Last edited by The Violator; 09-14-2020 at 11:34 AM.
#15
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Joined: Oct 2013
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From: SF Bay Area
Where did the block come from? Automotive blocks have a 10lb bypass valve in the filter pad that reroutes the oil straight back to the pan without going through the filter. When you add a remote filter pad it creates to much resistance and activates the valve. There’s a 30lb valve used for remote filter heads. Most of us just remove the valve altogether and plug the hole.
#16
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Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 11
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From: SE Washington State
Baja Rooster, it was definitely originally an automotive engine. Some kid had it built for a 1970 C-10, got the girlfriend knocked and had to free up some cash. I spoke with the builder and that’s where I decided to change the cam. Wouldn’t the oil bypass just bypass the filters if I removed it?
Edit: found some pretty good threads here on OSO and I think the smart money is to go to a 30# bypass valve, remove the plug in the center of the block adapter, put on my Wix racing no-bypass filters, and get a bigger cooler coming from CP/Hardin.
Edit: found some pretty good threads here on OSO and I think the smart money is to go to a 30# bypass valve, remove the plug in the center of the block adapter, put on my Wix racing no-bypass filters, and get a bigger cooler coming from CP/Hardin.
Last edited by The Violator; 09-14-2020 at 02:55 PM.
#17
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Joined: Oct 2013
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From: SF Bay Area
You’ve quite likely found at least one of your problems (all boats have more than one problem
Fwiw, I was able to replace mine in the boat. Using a mirror and 3/8” bolt i was able to grab it and wiggle it out. Putting in the new one was easy. Getting enough torque on the adaptor bolt was a mother though.
Oversizing the cooler and going with an oil thermostat has proven the way to go. Also read up on the oil line threads here. They’re pretty enlightening.

Fwiw, I was able to replace mine in the boat. Using a mirror and 3/8” bolt i was able to grab it and wiggle it out. Putting in the new one was easy. Getting enough torque on the adaptor bolt was a mother though.
Oversizing the cooler and going with an oil thermostat has proven the way to go. Also read up on the oil line threads here. They’re pretty enlightening.





