I had come up with a couple other options last night using the bravo shift bracket and magnetically actuated Reed switches but they would take some fabricating and I didn't think they could carry the current directly longer term (running in gear for 20-30 minutes).

Also found this which would have probably worked once properly mounted on the shift bracket but Liberators solution is the easiest......

This is available in both Normally Open and Closed variants and the closed can carry 5A 12V which I would assume that solenoid is under....

https://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/c...-datasheet.pdf


Hoping this Works and it has enough force to just barely raise the idle

There's another way around this. You need more initial timing. Depending on your ignition system this can be easy to do and keep your total timing as is or it can be a pia. But it would solve the problem.

Timing is locked at 32*.......

I'm hoping when I do go to FI to use Holleys distributor that can manage timing. I've read that advanced timing at startup can be hard on starters.....

You could use a MSD spark retard to pull timing out when cranking. I think they are active below 500rpm. I used them on my 565s when I ran locked timing at 34 deg. I believe they pull out 10 or 20 deg depending on what setting they are on

on the carb tuning,,you used the vac gauge to get the best reading,good,,you then have to take 1 idle screw and start turning it out,a little at a time.that should get you to idle in and out of gear.I do this for carbed blower motors all the time.strap it to the dock and tune away.

on some blower setups by keith eickert they used a solenoid to bleed air in under the carb or injection it worked well

If you want the solenoid to work as advertised use the relay.

Think about what the solenoid is doing. It is tickling your throttle. Old school carbureted blower motor guys use to have to learn how to drive their boat around the dock. If you shifted your engine would die unless you tickled of just gave it a tiny amount of throttle immediately after shifting. You then could bring the throttle back down and everything was fine.

I think the solenoids are a joke. You just need to practice using the tickle method. I’ve taught May new offshore boat owners how to drive them.

The only problem I see is the neutral switch only receives power when the key is in the "START" position.

nailed it!

I was thinking of doing the same thing. I ended up switching to Daytona Sensors ignition from MSD. Worked as good as I hoped for. You can set a desired idle rpm and it adds timing to control rpm. My carb motor runs like EFI now. If you need details, PM me and I can send you the timing file I created. This will work way better than bumping the secondaries.