No start no crank
 

1988 scarab panther two 454 bbc bravo 1 Outdrive’s
Intermittent problem.Turn key to start and nothing , no click nothing.It will happen hot or cold it’s not heat related.I can move shifter in and out of neutral with key in start position and see voltage meter drop when in neutral.I connected a wire to the starter solenoid and it will crank and run when contacting positive battery post. Where is the problem located?

If it’s not your solenoid itself and no evidence of mice having a happy meal with your wires then maybe try and jump your neutral safety switch in the engine bay. Also the one at your throttle. Just a quick guess!

Might just need a cable adjustment as they stretch over time. I have a feeling it’s at the shifter though.

You might check the push connectors near the solenoid

Have a Kill switch?

most likley the slave soeinoid.

When you say starter solenoid, are you talking about the one on the starter or the slave relay on top the motor?

I’ve heard of this slave solenoid / relay and that was my thinking on the problem. I just don’t know where it is or what it looks like. Is it a relay or solenoid?

Looks like this and its on top the motor. Follow the Yellow/Red wire from the starter solenoid


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...91cc2de10d.jpg

Look at the top rear of engine. It’s part of the main harness and will have two red cables attached. You’ll see it. Might be tucked behind a plastic shield.

Under the 50 amp breaker switch. I replaced 2 last year.

Wonder why. Spike in voltage or something. I could see where that could be easily overlooked when troubleshooting if not aware of. I’ve never had one go bad.

1 bad replaced both. 35 year old saltwater boat. Need I say more. lol

Nope! 👍

Thanks for everyone’s help with this. I’ll try to look at it this weekend. Is there anyone here that sells this solenoid? Thanks again!

If no on does just google
89-96054T

I replaced this on Saturday when mine wouldn't crank. Easy to check with a multimeter, but every single one of us should have a spare on board. They are used for lots of things. Trim, tabs, hatches, etc.....

Thanks, Mercruiser is always my first choice.

Very good point. And a jumper wire with alligator clips!

Test lights and multimeters are cheap and a diy’s best friend.

I had the same problem, it was my lanyard for the kill switch, it just wasn't on all the way, or you also might have a bad switch.

Had a lanyard a few years ago, that the clip must have just deformed with age a bit. Even though it was fully on, it didnt hold the kill switch plunger in quite enough. Took a while to figure that one out.:crazy:

This is one of the first pieces of advice I heeded after reading some posts here....just saw it yesterday in my junk drawer on the boat.

x 2 :party-smiley-004: :lolhit:

Had a electrical thing going on at the house. When a/c tuned on lights would dim just a little, no one noticed but me. Checked voltage coming into main box with multimeter. One leg good other was around 12 volts lower. I was thinking transformer. Called power company. I showed him what I had and he used my aluminum ladder to stand on to re crimp wires at weather head with power on. That was it bad connection.
Now same multimeter on boat. It was tabs, trim or something not working. I looked at everything with same multimeter for 2 months and everything had same voltage.
I was at harbor freight and saw a test light and thought it would be easier to use on somethings like the boat. Going all over the boat for the hundredth time with this new test light got to fuse panel going down fuse holders I noticed the light was dim on one fuse holder. The multimeter shows same voltage on all fuse holders. It was the same problem bad connection. The river was not tight on the fuse holder and busbar. Now I have three of these cheap harbor freight test lights.

Here is a very recent no crank/start thread.
https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...ml#post4779691
Please see my posts, and others of course.I had put in some diagrams to help diagnose. Ie: check power with light. Start w/yellow red that connects starter to remote solenoid. Turn key, check that wire at the remote solenoid. If no light, check yellow red on smaller post at solenoid. If lit with key to start, check battery cable at top of remote solenoid.(red/blue i believe) Power ? If yes, cross that with top yellow red next to it snd see if cranks. If it does, it’s the remote solenoid or it’s ground.