Stud girdle/Hardin valve covers
 

Question is (clearance) i currently have crane rockers and was going to install girdles. Probably make a difference what manufacturer of girdle. I will be installing spring oilers also so maybe an additional 3/8". Pretty sure I'm going the yella terra route but just in case. Wanna beat Rookie to the trial. Lol... Just an FYI after talking to several HP techs over the last few weeks every single one spoke very highly of the yella terras and not a single complaint or failure they new of at least with their customers. Trying to find a good working number for them.

I have Hardin wedge valve covers and Comp Cams Solid Bar (4021) stud girdles and they clear. I haven't tested to see how much though?

Thank you. These correct
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...fe4741ac2b.png

Those are the ones!

Stud girdles only needed above 6K rpm, how fast are your turning this thing up to?

I have those valve covers with .250 longer intake valves and afr stud girdles. About 3/8 inch clearance.

I had Teague's version on my blown 454 with Dart heads and stud girdles. They fit with plenty of room.

Do you really need them?

[QUOTE=TomZ;4781786]I had Teague's version on my blown 454 with Dart heads and stud girdles. They fit with plenty of room.

Do you really need them?[/QUO

Depending on desired RPM and unspecified lift, I'm sure getrdunn knows what he needs! besides when done it will be rock solid!

Kinda like does everyone need a steel crank and four bolt mains. 😂. In this case yes with over .700 lift and turning over 6k it’s the least expensive item on builds.

Anything worth doing is worth overdoing! Solid rollers and big lift and I'm lazy enough not to want to F with crap AFTER I build it. Cheap insurance. I really haven't seen too many 'economical' builds on this site, one of the reasons I love it!

Take a look at Webster Industries, one size doesn't fit all with different valve angles on after market heads, Ive used these on multiple builds
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9ebcacaeb8.jpg

+1^^^^ on the Webster's

Webster must make them for AFR they look the same as mine.
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I was just asking, for conversation's sake :D

The difference between "need" and "want" doesn't exist on most of these builds! If ya Want it......ya need it!!! hahaha!

Questions and conversations are what this site was built on. We all gain! I’ve ran numerous endurance engines “without” girdles or shaft mount rockers with no issues. When getting more aggressive and chasing power like many of us do there really are very few places if any to cut corners. It’s easy to spend 3 times the cost of heads in all the light weight good guy components in addition to porting/assembly.

There was a great video showing BBC valvetrain movement with clear valve covers on a dyno. Makes my joints hurt just watching it let alone the way our engines feel at extended high rpm runs. SB will probably post it.

Speaking of of which a very well known friend did a dyno test on the cheap chinamen shaft mount rockers. He literally watched them begin to self destruct. He probably did it just for the benefit of his customers trying to cut cost.

Exactly. Comes with a price but also with a piece of mind. Overkill is far superior to that of under. If it lets lose you’ve done all you could do to prevent.

Personally I don`t like vibrations and harmonics from one rocker being transferred to the next and so on but hey , they look cool.

Ideally I want to prop at (or close) to peak hp 6,200-6,300 extended runs. Maybe closer to 6k. TBD.

I get what your saying but always thought a little movement “here and there” was better than excessive movement “here”. I just left a voicemail message to a Mate at Yella Terra. I keep forgetting and call when their probably out shining for kangaroos. 😂

Kinda like what determines what your pushrod material, diameter and thickness? Something else many overlook.

i have K.E. spring o.ilers and use those hardin valve covers. they clear the girdles no problem.

if you are going to use the spring oilers i suggest putting pop off inline valves on the lines before the oilers. mine are adjustable and i set them to open at 35 psi. without them at idle they bled off too much oil and lowered my pressure too much

Did you use adjustable brake residual valves ? Or sone thing similar ?

I used Yella Terras exclusively in my naturally aspirated motors that dynoed at 1100 to 1200 hp in my dragster. Never had a failure at all. Loved them.

imo anything you an do to stabilize the valve train is a plus,in a marine endurance engine that sees high rpm,s for a long time it is going to extend the life of the valve springs.it,s amazing how much the rocker studs move on a bbc running at 5000 rpm and above.also,believe it or not they also create better valve sealing.

I purchased the KE’s as well. Also good advice however can you post a pic.

hylok cva-m4n-a is a stainless valve that is adjustable. used air pressure to set the screw in the valve to open them at 35 psi. they are screwed in the block oil passage on the side of the block up front by the timing cover.
i used one per engine and split the oil lines to each valve cover.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c2153f73ec.jpg


its one of those things i never would have know existed.

for reference its about 2 inches long and has 1/4 npt pipe threads

Perfect. We’re on the same page. I was having a brain fart. Tks for the part number also.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...21600ff947.jpg
I also make sure my boat insurance is paid on time. I found the guy that makes them for AFR, Dart, Howards etc. He literally had heads from all of them to check the fit. I have AFR heads and the Hardin valve covers as well, no problems.

+2 on the Websters. They fit perfectly.

Interesting. From my phone I’m unable to see the name on the girdles however they look like a nice piece. Does this guy just make them upon request and sell or is it under a company name. Tks

The set I have are actually labeled Howards Cams. I also use their phenolic carb spacers, I added the tapered 4 hole and it made such an improvement my wife noticed. I also added a 1" open and noticed even more gain. The owner was actually an old time off shore racer himself. They're based in Pontiac, MI, website is: https://jomarperformance.com/

abones passed on their number a bit ago and I called and talked to John. Real neat guy. Gave me cash pick up price. I love it.


I must admit I like the design of the Webster’s better. Is there a cross ref to to a jomar 1114.

Bill (Webster) is very knowledgeable and has always answered any questions.
I am sure he can tell you exactly what you need. 916 635-4233

I’d be careful around Abones, gotta keep an eye that guy 🧐😎

I worked with Bill on the 525 Mercury Edelbrock alum head, I sent him one head and he designed the brackets off of it, very good guy to deal with

👀😂

Bill (Webster) is very knowledgeable and has always answered any questions.
I am sure he can tell you exactly what you need. 916 635-4233

I’d be careful around Abones, gotta keep an eye that guy 🧐😎


WHAAAAAT? REEEELLY? :party-smiley-004: :blahblah:

T
 

T&D rockers and you have both

I would have to agree but over priced IMO. Very good with very little failures and means a lot to help protect a 20k engine for sure. Definitely worth it but the yella terras have a great track record just not as well known. I want to do a swap on dyno playing with my intake lift to see if it’s worthy of any respectable gains before pulling the trigger on any shaft mount rockers.

i know older post,,,but i am with ya getrdunn,,,as i am also running 720 isky cam,,,,tried of worrying about rocker coming lose,,,and yes have the alien lock set up..


what about JOMAR,,,they were THE stud girdle set up years ago,,ran them on my super gas car..