zfrilly

Glad you got it tightened up!

underpsi68

Going up in 10lb increments is not ideal. Usually the torque will be higher just the break the bolt/stud free. I like 20lb increments. Just my 02

TomZ

iTrader: (2)

I stuck with the 80 grit.

I’m all over the details usually but in this case the slippage was my own fault. I checked each one that had a problem and found that lube had gotten between the washer and the head. Not a lot, but just enough to cause a problem. I ended up using the other set that I bought, prepped the washers and cleaned, then got it together.

I’ll back them off tomorrow and re-torque per Felpro’s instructions. I’ll measure for pushrods and then that should be it for the long block.

TomZ

iTrader: (2)

When I hit it again tomorrow, I’ll divide it up equally. It should be good to go then.

TomZ

iTrader: (2)

Everyone has chimed in with different procedures for applying proper torque to head bolts. I have seen different instructions from aftermarket manufacturers. My way came from Dart and Brodix (but looking at Brodix this morning showed a little different... newer instructions). My Dart instructions were 40 base, then increments of 10 to 70. I think I read that older AFRs were similar. The point is that there are variances among the manufacturers. ARP says three equal steps with their 170k head bolts (so 24, 47, 70). I’ve followed my way for years with aluminum heads and not had any failures. So what’s really the right way?

SB

iTrader: (1)

For ARP tp stay with the times and update their dumb washers

f_inscreenname

On Iron heads I've always done all the bolts down to where they touch plus a 1/8th turn and then 1/3, 2/3's and then the total torque number.
Couple things, pretty sure head gaskets need to be squished all at once. Not let them sit over night at half torque to compress and then go after them again the next day.
Next is the 5lbs at a time...... I'm thinking at least a couple head bolts would pull out of the block doing that by the time I got to my total number.
They are one thing I will not play with in anyway except by the book because I F_IN HATE HEAD BOLTS. Even have a fully stocked Time Sert kit in stock and I haven't built a motor in 3 years and wouldn't even take a set of heads off a block without one.

ThisIsLivin

I was on the fastening team at GM years ago. That was when they started doing a lot more torque angle fastening. It's super repeatable on clamp load. I'll have to see if I still have my book on fastening. Maybe get some info from Felpro and Cometic on recommended clamp loads so we can convert to torque angle to get the right clamp load. I have a contact with one of the automated fastening companies. I'll check with him to see if he has some formulas we can use. Most of the automated stuff I worked on, hit a preload torque paused and then hit it's angular rotation. That was a long time ago, I'm sure it's changed.

87MirageIntruder

I have been pondering this a lot over the past few weeks. So many good things brought up on this topic that affect torque:
Washer spin
dry vs wet torque (as some head bolts need to be sealed on some engines)
thread cleanliness
the initial torque it takes to start turning
etc etc

Then I was looking at the torque specs for a gen VII BBC (496) and it torques to 22 lbs, then does the degree/angle in steps after that. By doing that you've just eliminated all the variables I mentioned above. Goes along with what ThisIsLivin said.

TomZ

iTrader: (2)

Can the 496 specifications be applied to preview generations? And what about the fasteners? I'm sure that'll make a difference. Would be a great way of getting the heads squared away if this could be figured out.