seafordguy

I'm guessing it's working right but it seems like timing is all over the place - honestly sometimes it looks like it's even below the minimum timing I have built in my curve.

Was that the experience you guys have had?

Is it just changing so fast that my timing light and cheap timing tape aren't putting out Crystal clear readings (visibly)

Trying to go to ramp tomorrow to test my idle stabilisation/carb settings under load......

GETTINBYE

My guess is you need to turn the multi spark function off for setting initial timing or set using total timing above 3000 or so rpm

Mark

seafordguy

Mark - thanks for the reply. I had overlooked that it was enabled. Maybe I'll disable it, reload and then confirm in the morning before I had to ramp.

I know the locked distributor timing is correct because I checked that on the old boxes at cranking speed.

seafordguy

I think that's exactly what was happening. The multi spark was just causing some confusing readings on the timing light. I loaded with it disabled and had more consistent readings.

Went to ramp and for the first time ever it didn't die when I dropped it in gear! Never took it off the trailer so there was plenty of resistance....

I'll fine tune this summer I think, as I'd like to fiddle with the idle mixture screws and run as lean at idle as possible to prevent fouling (although that was never a real problem, but I always ran it a little fat to compensate for the stalling) but overall I'm already happier - turns over better, starts easier, idles better, yada yada.

B38

Must use old school timing light. Digital wont work with Daytona sensors