Running 496 Mag on water hose?
#1
Running 496 Mag on water hose?
What is the best procedure on starting a 496Mag Bravo 1 on your driveway hose? Im familiar with the alpha one procedure but realize the Bravo One has the pump on the motor.
Can I use the same ear muff from the alpha on the Bravo?
Can I use the same ear muff from the alpha on the Bravo?
#2
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Yes, key is to have a low flow on the muffs, at least to start...I have seen many Bravo pumps essentially get a hydro-lock and NOT pump any water
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Baja 252 Islander
Baja 252 Islander
#3
After the motor starts, how long before water comes out of the through hull?
I just don't want to melt the impeller! I'd like to warm the engine before changing the oil.
I would like to run Full Synthetic. What viscosity do you like 10/30, 20/50?
I recently purchased a used Baja but not familiar with the drive flush ?
#4
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Check the drive to see if it has dual water pickups, it will have the normal intakes on the sides where the muffs go, there will also have small hole intakes above the skeg, if it has the holes, I always put tape over them, put ears on, turn water on full, and fire it up. I've had 496's for 12 years and have never had an issue with pumps not priming, it will prime the fresh water cooling side quicker with the lower intakes covered
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Mariah212Z (04-10-2022), Sunny32SSR (04-11-2022)
#5
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Every one has there own system, ….I put the muffs on with the drive down, turn the water on full, start the engine. Look at the muffs right after start up and you should notice less water leaking out around the muffs because it is being picked up by the pump. First start of season will take longer to get water out exhaust especially if they drained it and didn’t just fill it with antifreeze. I would say 60sec at the most.
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#6
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Sorry I was typing same time as other guy
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Mariah212Z (04-10-2022)
#7
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Every one has there own system, ….I put the muffs on with the drive down, turn the water on full, start the engine. Look at the muffs right after start up and you should notice less water leaking out around the muffs because it is being picked up by the pump. First start of season will take longer to get water out exhaust especially if they drained it and didn’t just fill it with antifreeze. I would say 60sec at the most.
I do the same thing, never had a problem.....I start mine every time before we go out to make sure I’m not “that guy” at the ramp trying to figure out what may be wrong....I’m just weird that way though.
Oh ya, the great oil debate.....there are many threads on here about that. I run Mobil 1 15w/50 in a 502 mag mpi....seems to be doing well.
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Mariah212Z (04-10-2022), SB (04-10-2022)
#8
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#10
As long as you are not in a hurry to change the oil, you don't really need to warm it up. Just use the oil drain hose, and extend it out of the bilge drain hole, and put it into a into a jug. I had a specific 5 gallon fuel jug that I used for this task.
When I got home from a run, I'd usually let it drain out that afternoon. And then come back the next day, change the oil filter, plug the hose back up, and fill 'er up.
I used 1 quart of Lucas Oil Treatment and 7 quarts of Mobil1 15w50 for 13 seasons on my 496HOs. The boat has since had two more owners and they are doing the same; and the boat has no issues.
When I got home from a run, I'd usually let it drain out that afternoon. And then come back the next day, change the oil filter, plug the hose back up, and fill 'er up.
I used 1 quart of Lucas Oil Treatment and 7 quarts of Mobil1 15w50 for 13 seasons on my 496HOs. The boat has since had two more owners and they are doing the same; and the boat has no issues.
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Mariah212Z (04-11-2022)