Break in oil suggestions
 

Having my engines refreshed with new flat tappet cams. I have been using Valvoline high zinc oil 20 x 50. It has a zinc level of 1400. Should I add comp cams break in additive to this oil? or should I just use 8 quarts of break in oil without the Valvoline oil.
Thanks in advance.

Something like this (doing quick search, summit racing has great sale on it)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/l...iABEgJPZPD_BwE



https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...0ab04f636.jpeg

From lucas oil’s site:
https://lucasoil.com/pdf/Zinc_Values_MotorcycleOil.pdf


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6523ee5282.png

Can I get away with 30 weight? It's only really around 20 minutes of run time right?

Yup, 30w is pretty thick.

They make a 20w-50 break in too, if you want.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/luc-10636-1

Others make break in oil too. I have no favorites, was just pointing out the lucas 30w break in oil was pretty cheap at Summit right now. :)

I’m using sae 30 with Lucas break in additive to break in a rebuild. Then doing an oil change after breaking 30mins or so. I also have a magnetic oil plug in there to grab bits of metal. Then I switch to lever oil plug for quick drains and I use conventional motor oil (match the weight to man. Specs) for next 20-25 hours. Then follow manufacturer suggestions on synthetics and weights (most likely fine to switch to synthetics but double check).

I think I'll use the 30 weight also since it is cheaper and it's only for 20 to 25 minutes of run time. I was then going use VR1 racing oil 20/50 This oil has very high zinc and phosphorus around 1400. I used to use amzoil Z rod 20/50 full synthetic. The z rod oil is great for Winter storage. It has anti rust inhibitors.
I'll probably switch back to that after 3 oil changes. I have a magnet on my oil pan. Tough to reach . The fast change hoses are a good idea.

Ive never broke in an engine with a multi viscosity oil...........but do the the 20-50 high zinc VR-1 afterwords

I’ve run straight 30 Napa (valvoline) in most everything I have and never an issue. Although I have run 20/50 from time to time also with good luck. I grew up near two well known engine builders both from opposite sides of the tracks so to speak and they both swore on straight weight oil. Considering I’m still running the same car I had when I was told that (fk - going in 40 yrs) I’m gonna keep going with it. I recall you being aware of the importance of zinc with your hyd flat tappet cams and be sure and keep us posted on your builds. I’m curious and hope the best for you. Did you end up using the comp grind? That one looked really good I thought.

Id follow SB’s advice on the break in oil (Lucas 30).

Note: I’m pretty sure Napa oil still comes from valvoline. Either way they have very strict ingredients from whom they purchase.

edit: Going back to your original question - if you do use your 20/50 for break in definitely use the comp zinc additive. No need to with the Lucas break in which is a great price (fyi)
Cheaper going the Lucas route. That’s another thing I’m guilty of… I’ve never used any break in oil. I do however understand the benefits. Go out and build up some heat, look for any leaks, shut it down and let cool, start back up and giver he!!.

What carbs you running? If the 800’s your jetting should be close to the 502/465 jetting. Staggered

Sorry so long winded… I couldn’t sleep!!! 😂

Yes I finally got those cams.. First ordered them from Jegs. but could not get a ship date from them so I got them from summit.racing. Motors aren't done yet. I will probably use the straight 30 lucas break oil.. then go to 20/50 VR! high zinc. My carbs are 850 DP setup/ flowed by Nickerson performance in Bristol PA. I contacted them and they said no jet change needed since the cams are relatively close. The carbs are blueprinted to my engines. 78 jets pri 86 sec, They do a nice job there. One thing I never had was carb issues.. Turn key and go!

Who is building the engines ? Are they going to warranty them ? If so I would ask them what you should use :)

Personally I have been using the Driven 10W40 Break In oil. I would leave it in for an hour or so of easy running.

Just a local machine shop. They have done some other engines for me in the past.. I got friendly with the owner. I did some HVAC work for them so I am pretty loyal back to them. I never new you can get a warranty unless they are bone stock! and even then try and collect !!! . Its just a refresh with a new cam.. Check out 2nd time here we go again clanking ticking noise after engine shut down

Since we are on this topic, ie: flat tappet oil, this available recently , and also at Walmart. $20 for 5 quarts conventional
. More info:
https://www.castrol.com/en_us/united...x-classic.html
and
https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/F...EPP-BYBE6A.pdf

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...79d6aef37.jpeg

I've built and dynoed a lot of engines. I've used VR1, Amsoil Racing, Joe Gibbs, etc. right down to off the shelf Pennzoil and Valvoline and have never had a cam failure. If you gonna go with a hi-zinc break in oil do it with one engineered that way. The off the shelf additives can do just as much harm as they can good. (Deals with foreign material attaching to the detergents.) Oils are engineered. They spend millions of dollars on the design and testing. Your not going to out do the engineering department by adding anything to the oil.
Also in my opinion, most cams are lost from not using a good moly coat on lobes and lifters along with priming the system. The moly that ARP supplies with their fasteners has worked great for us the last 25 yrs on lobes and lifters.

I just had my 540 Merlins rebuilt,,my engine builder strongly recommends,, Driven ,,break in oil,,straight 30 wt.,,so thats what we used,,

I had an old GM guy (friend) who did a lot of hi-perf builds when I was young poking around on my bicycle and he was the most meticulous guy I’ve ever met when it came to the cleanliness, tolerances etc I’ve ever met. He would also coat all the bearings with moly.

He helped me build my first 383 engine when I was 16 and I’ll never forget when he came to my place and we fired up the engine for the first time and broke in the camshaft by the book. When we shut it down and he went to leave he said what ever you do don’t fire it back up. OK - I was 16 had a Camaro with a 383 double hump camel back heads with the 292 comp magnum cam (was called king of the drive in cam) and just open headers. You think I didn’t fire it back up the minute he drove off. He heard it and never let me forget about that. Lol….

Never had an issue but also never forgot what he said as he had such a great record with long lasting engines.

He recently passed away but I’ll never forget all the little things that are so important that he taught me. Clean clean clean and reclean!!!

ZR -1 and can order from Amazon by the 5 quart case , reasonable and next day delivery .just ordered 12 cases on a Saturday and they delivered Sunday morn by 10.00 a.m.