Break in
 

So I finally got my engines back yay! I had them refreshed with a new flat tappet cam etc. I am using Lucas 30 weight break in oil for the 1st 30 minutes of runtime. After that I plan on using Valvoline 20/50 racing oil. Non synthetic. Do I need to add an additional additive to the valvoline oil. It is already high zinc high phosphorus 1300/1400 PPM
Thanks in advance

Good procedures for break-in...

https://www.enginebuildermag.com/201...-in-procedure/

Removing the inner springs during break-in might be a good idea.

VR1 High Zinc should be good, but with how fragile flat tappet cams are, I'd run an additional additive just to be safe (cannot hurt).

Good luck - flat tappet cam survival is a crapshoot it seems.

If I recall you bought those comp cams. Specs looked great. If it were me I’d run a zinc additive regardless however your best bet would be to call comp tech and ask them the very same question. I’m sure you’ll be fine. Although less and less hyd flat tappet cams every year there’s still a gazillion of them out there running daily.

So for initial breakin the 30 weight Lucas breakin oil will be good alone. After 30 minutes of running I will change the oil and filter. I will use the high sync
valvoline oil with the compcams additive. On the previous post I read the breakin procedure and it says after the 1st 30 minutes change the oil and run the engine for 500 miles. How many hours is considered 500 miles in a boat. And how am I supposed to run it not full throttle and not idling for a long time?

Once cam break in then next is ring concern.
In carrying on with the Engine Builder articles and video from Total Seal.
Ring article
https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=194808045119504

Miles?
I'd go a few hours then change again after ring break in myself.
If you are concerned about miles you could always use a portable suction cup GPS to record miles traveled or one of the many speedometer apps on your phone.

Merc's break-in procedure isn't a bad thing to follow. I'd say you're good at 10 hours.

When can I go back to my amsoil Z rod 20/50.

My engines were bored to 509 back in 2003. The blocks and cranks were in real nice condition surprisingly.
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No
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Your average 500 miles in a car would be 10-20 hours

I've had this oil discussion with several different cam company people. The additives aren't all they're cracked up to be. The oils are engineered to do the job straight out of the bottle. Your not going to make it better with a random additive. You may very well make it worse. When you start adding things that aren't there originally there the "soaps" in the oil start encapsulating them. Thus degrading both the oil additive package and the additive you've put in. Oil companies spend millions with highly sophisticated equipment and test methods. Your not gonna do better on your own.
Everyone gets wound up about the reduction in zinc. Zinc did a great job. But it was the lowest cost alternative. When levels were reduced they had something to take its place that is just as good if not better. Millions upon millions of cars are still on the road with flat tappet cams running the cheapest oil they can find. I've built hundreds of engines and have never had a cam fail. Of the few I know that have had a cam fail on break-in they all came from the same company that employs a massive advertising budget. The best thing you can do is run an oil engineered for the application right out of the bottle. Doesn't matter if it's synthetic or regular.

So in your opinion, run the lucas 30w break in oil for 30 minutes. Then change the oil and filter and add the Valvoline 20/50 high zinc vr1 oil with no additional additives? and I should be good to go?

Just noting they (millions and millions of cars on the road) have very low tension valve springs.

I know this is not the same, BUT, not too many years ago I ran dirt track cars in a class that was limited to flat tappet cams. Big solid cams and big springs, 7500rpm. Here was the cam break in procedure after refresh. I always put new lifters in, even on a used cam. We would start it up and warm it up, set the timing and shut it off and run the valves. Next stop was at the track for hot laps, qualifying and racing. Never used any procedure. Never wiped out a cam lobe or lifter. Ran thousands of laps on multiple engines, camshafts, spring pressures and everything else. All of this was done with VR-1 20W/50. My point is, if the valvetrain is set up correctly, you won't have any issues. I believe you are way overthinking it.

My previous crane cam had doubles springs. My new Comp Cam required only one spring .I'm glad I don't have to remove the inner and take it apart again.

I am surprised that nobody else has asked . . . . . what does your engine builder say to do ????? That would be the first choice of procedures especially if you expect them to stand behind the engine..

Was the engine dynoed ? If so then I would run it for 30 minutes then take the filters off and cut them open to make sure nothing stupid is happening. If the filters are ok put two now ones on and add a qt of the 10W40 to each engine. The go run it fairly easy for an hour or so. After that go with the VR or Mercruisers oil.

Just my opinion,

My engine builder said use the lucas 30w break in oil, run for 20 -25 minutes varying between 2000 and 3000 and you will be good to go for the cam and rings Then change oil and filters and use the high zinc valvoline vr1. He used to have a dyno...If there was a dyno locally I would have done it that way. A lot easier for break in and if it blows up on the dyno (it wouldn't me my fault) lol. But this time no dyno.
This guy does all kinds of engines even Farrari, Jaguar, He has done my engines in previous boats but he had the dyno back then.

Ready for 1st start-up I read this in another thread. I will follow these instructions on break in. The cost of oil is a lot cheaper than engine parts.

Prime the oiling with the distributor out, drop in the distrib. Fire it up, watch to make sure youre making good oil pressure, juggle timing to a "good enough" spot. hold it above 2000 rpm for at least 20 minutes. Watch oil pressure, watch coolant temp. If there are oil or coolant leaks, try to ignore them as long as pressures and temps are tolerable. Coolant temp can run pretty warm on this first run.
After 20 mins, vary revs some, but stay below 3000. If it's happy, then slow to 1000 and fo a quick tweak on idle speed stop screw and a quickie with the timing light and idle mix screws. Then shut her down.
As soon as it's under 115 degrees, drain the oil into a CLEAN pan. There should be VERY LITTLE sparkle (because your Jomar filter should have caught and kept most if it).

Refill w fresh oil (still break-in oil).
Do a second heat cycle and heat up by running at 2000 again. THEN you can slow it down, hook up your vacuum gauge, and start finding your best initial ignition advance (adjust for max vacuum), then adjust idle screw to desired idle rpm. Then adjust idle mix screws for best vacuum. Repeat several times until you like your baseline. You want to get it running on the idle circuits as opposed to running on the transition slots..
NOW you've broken in your cam and lifters.
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Good luck!:confused:

Better for first start up on the ground before installing it in the boat :boat: ??

That’s the way I do mine.

Its nice I have a friend with a forklift but how many times can you borrow it:( lol

I bought a gantry - the forklift ended up being more of a pain in the azz to use.

gantry with a chain fall is the best for sure

One guy on the forklift, one on back of boat and one guy in the boat...I work the forklift lol..in case I smash the boat.
I was going to buy a gantry crane but I would have to buy a 10ft cross beam to make it so my boat would fit. Then moving this monstrosity around would be a real pain in the azz.

I bought the adjustable deal from Harbor Freight. $700 on sale. My 311 just barely squeaks inside of it. Have used it a few times now. Not too bad.

The chain fall is a pain and can really scratch up stuff. I’m really careful with it but electric would probably be easiest to use. I might upgrade.

I lower the top and keep it out of the way in the back yard. The chain fall and other parts go inside the garage to stay clean.

I would have nowhere to keep it after use. Hopefully this will be the only time i will need the forklift.

Update: Broke both engines in with Lucas 30w break in oil. Ran them for 30 minutes each @ 2000-2500 . Changed the oil and filter and added Lucas 20/50 break in oil. Ran the engines for 15 minutes @ 2000- 2500 rpm's, then idled down adjusted idle and carb. Changed oil and filter again. Added Valvoline VR! high zinc racing oil. I have not run it since break in. I'm installing motors in boat next week. So my question is for my first ride taking it easy for at least 10 hours should I add the comp cams additive to the vr1 oil. I know the vr1 oil is at least 1350 ppm zinc and phosphorus.

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