Best endurance mods
06-25-2022, 09:58 AM
#1
Best endurance mods
Let`s pretend you wanna go for a land distance record. What modification or changes would you make? open her up for an hour at 5500rpm.
I`m using one bellhousing cooler for trans and a 13 plate for oil. I think the 1075 used both bellhousing coolers for oil and a seperate one for trans. That`s one option, keep that oil cool.
Heat is an issue , piston and spring oilers? Check.
Piston heat barrier coating , Check
Cylinder head coating :?
Different piston rings?
Fuel cooler on the return side to keep from getting too hot. (on the list)
More water volume... 2 stage pumps?
one stage for intercooler or trans and fuel cooler?
what else ?
I`m using one bellhousing cooler for trans and a 13 plate for oil. I think the 1075 used both bellhousing coolers for oil and a seperate one for trans. That`s one option, keep that oil cool.
Heat is an issue , piston and spring oilers? Check.
Piston heat barrier coating , Check
Cylinder head coating :?
TBC™ is effectively used on cylinder heads, intake manifolds, brake calipers and other areas where the reduction in heat transfer is desirable.
Combustion Chambers are coated with TBC™ to help keep as much heat as possible in the combustion chamber. Keeping heat in the chamber will increase power and lower operating temperatures. TBC™ has been specifically formulated for internal engine use so it actually decreases detonation. All heads will benefit from TBC™ being applied to the combustion chamber, but these gains are heightened with aluminum heads. Many race and turbo motors will have the exhaust ports TBC™ coated in addition to the combustion chambers. Intake manifolds are coated with TBC™ to reduce the temperature of the intake air being fed into the motor.
Combustion Chambers are coated with TBC™ to help keep as much heat as possible in the combustion chamber. Keeping heat in the chamber will increase power and lower operating temperatures. TBC™ has been specifically formulated for internal engine use so it actually decreases detonation. All heads will benefit from TBC™ being applied to the combustion chamber, but these gains are heightened with aluminum heads. Many race and turbo motors will have the exhaust ports TBC™ coated in addition to the combustion chambers. Intake manifolds are coated with TBC™ to reduce the temperature of the intake air being fed into the motor.
Fuel cooler on the return side to keep from getting too hot. (on the list)
More water volume... 2 stage pumps?
one stage for intercooler or trans and fuel cooler?
what else ?
06-25-2022, 10:04 AM
#2
Registered
NA 632s with 0.600” lift bushing mechanical rollers, steel rockers. Raw water cooled, cast exhaust manifolds (TnL or SM), 6s. I don’t have enough experience to make recs on oil cooling.
06-25-2022, 10:14 AM
#3
Anything above 600ci you get into no good rod angles , I`d go 572 the biggest .
I did upgraded to .904 lifters...
good set of shaft rockers ?
Belt drives , check.
head gaskets .. MLS still the go to?
I did upgraded to .904 lifters...
good set of shaft rockers ?
Belt drives , check.
head gaskets .. MLS still the go to?
Last edited by ICDEDPPL; 06-25-2022 at 10:33 AM.
06-25-2022, 11:01 AM
#4
Registered
On rod angle, theoretically it’s worse. In practice I’m not sure any boats ever wear out a bore before the valve train falls apart. Plus there are piston options to push the pin way up if you really want some more rod.
Hard to say on gaskets, I know everyone uses MLS. They are very sensitive to surface finish. Supposedly seal better. As long as you aren’t knocking you shouldn’t blow one.
Im on the fence about injection. If you do 8 cylinder AFR tuning, that seems like a major benefit. If you did the same with a Carb that would be more reliable IMO.
06-25-2022, 11:12 AM
#5
This is another way to cool the engine I guess...
“We generally start with a Dart block and we machine them to our specs for the marine racing. We also do a lot of coatings inside our engines and we put oilers in there too. We use piston oilers and we use an oiling system that bolts in the valley to spray oil on the lifters also. We do a lot of internal oiling in marine engines.
“We also make sure we get large volumes of water through the engine to keep it cool. The lake or ocean acts as the radiator for our engines. We improve the water flow by using a two-stage water pump on our engines – feeding one side of the motor with one stage of the pump and the other side of the motor with the second stage of the pump – so we’re running larger volumes of water through the engine.
“We also make sure we get large volumes of water through the engine to keep it cool. The lake or ocean acts as the radiator for our engines. We improve the water flow by using a two-stage water pump on our engines – feeding one side of the motor with one stage of the pump and the other side of the motor with the second stage of the pump – so we’re running larger volumes of water through the engine.
06-25-2022, 12:53 PM
#7
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iTrader: (1)
Gentle valve action of course. Some also swear by using very large pushrods.
Also spring oilers or a way to flood valve springs more.
Last edited by SB; 06-25-2022 at 12:55 PM.
06-25-2022, 03:02 PM
#8
Registered
iTrader: (7)
A good thread!!! I ran across the pond to Manitowoc many years ago with a 32’ twin stock 330’s…. No oil coolers etc WOT (4,700) approx 65 miles and never touched the sticks until I arrived outside the port.
Was kind of a test to be honest and engines were gonna be pulled anyway shortly there after so if one grenaded I really didn’t care. Had about 350 hours on them at the time.
Sorry I had to throw it out there 😂. But to add to the OQ the best balance job money can buy always adds to longevity in my experience in addition to what’s been mentioned.
Was kind of a test to be honest and engines were gonna be pulled anyway shortly there after so if one grenaded I really didn’t care. Had about 350 hours on them at the time.
Sorry I had to throw it out there 😂. But to add to the OQ the best balance job money can buy always adds to longevity in my experience in addition to what’s been mentioned.
06-25-2022, 08:44 PM
#9
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Heat is your biggest enemy. Piston oilers, spring oilers, bronzed lifter bores, big oil reserves, and lots of cooling.
we run ours at 6000 for 15 minute pulls. Lot of attention to oil temps and water pressure. I also run the dual cooler bell housing. I started out same as you one for engine oil, one for trans. Wasn't getting the cooling needed for engine so now use both for engine and a tube cooler for trans. We run a dry sump oil system with a 4 gallon tank. Cp performance thermostat oil filter. We find the spring oilers put a ton of heat in the oil. Our oil temps will reach 250 -260 for about 30 seconds until the thermostat opens then settle down and stay right around 215. Because we also are using the oil to cool we change it about every 10 hours or after every poker run. Also make sure you run a good oil.
we also have oil returns on the back of the heads to the pans to keep the hot oil off the cam.
we run ours at 6000 for 15 minute pulls. Lot of attention to oil temps and water pressure. I also run the dual cooler bell housing. I started out same as you one for engine oil, one for trans. Wasn't getting the cooling needed for engine so now use both for engine and a tube cooler for trans. We run a dry sump oil system with a 4 gallon tank. Cp performance thermostat oil filter. We find the spring oilers put a ton of heat in the oil. Our oil temps will reach 250 -260 for about 30 seconds until the thermostat opens then settle down and stay right around 215. Because we also are using the oil to cool we change it about every 10 hours or after every poker run. Also make sure you run a good oil.
we also have oil returns on the back of the heads to the pans to keep the hot oil off the cam.
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articfriends (06-26-2022), Gimme Fuel (06-27-2022), ICDEDPPL (06-26-2022), resurrected (06-27-2022), underpsi68 (06-25-2022), Unlimited jd (06-25-2022)
06-26-2022, 03:25 PM
#10
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
iTrader: (1)
assuming oil cooler and pan are sized correctly, clearances are correct, innercooler doesnt allow IAT to climb much past 110/120 after it stabilizes, it comes down to TUNE. I never held my 548 under boost for a hr at redline BUT it got held there for 10 minutes before more than once (6200/6300/12-13 lbs boost).
Im currently dynoing a "old school" blown 462 bbc (mud truck engine). Im using holley terminator, e85, putting all fuel in top, plain jane dyers 8-71, nothing special bbc blower intake. well, first pull the afrs FRIGHTEN me, on gas scale (not converting lamda to e-86=5 numbers) I got 17-1 on #2, 16-1 on #1, 15-1 give or take on 3,4 and 11.0-1 or less on 5,6,7,8 and drum roll, high 11s at tail pipe,.If this had carbs, I would call it UNTUNABLE as youd need #110 jets in front and 85s in back carb. I repositioned all the injectors as far foward in injector plate as possible from where they were and plugged old holes with old injectors. moving the fronts .800 forward got afrs down into 15s on front cylinders, progressively adding 10, 15 , 20, 25% fuel to front injectors at 110,120, 130 map got front into the mid 13s, also put highest flowing injectors in front after running them on my ASNU machine and lowest flowing in rear. 7/8 went from 10.5 to 13.5 from moving the injectors a inch, moved them back, now those are back to 10.5/11.0. long story short, its a horrid afr mess, i cant imagine somone sticking two square jetted carbs or 8 mechanical injectors on pone of these and not seeing egts or afrs on a dyno, would almost guarantee to melt a piston even with 'good" average tailpipe readings.
this isnt a boat engine but the kind of truck it is is called a 'play bogger" so these guys stay in throttle for a minute or longer, not 3 seconds but I can guarantee some blown boat engines face same issues. Those two cylinders you cooked werent at 12.2 or 11.8, whatever it was you had target at, they were probably 14-1 or higher. I actually called you a few hrs ago when driving to borrow some pulleys to talk about these horrid numbers, lol. Youll be doing yourself a big favor by having ben or dan tune yours with 10 o2 sensors or egts in long run!
Im currently dynoing a "old school" blown 462 bbc (mud truck engine). Im using holley terminator, e85, putting all fuel in top, plain jane dyers 8-71, nothing special bbc blower intake. well, first pull the afrs FRIGHTEN me, on gas scale (not converting lamda to e-86=5 numbers) I got 17-1 on #2, 16-1 on #1, 15-1 give or take on 3,4 and 11.0-1 or less on 5,6,7,8 and drum roll, high 11s at tail pipe,.If this had carbs, I would call it UNTUNABLE as youd need #110 jets in front and 85s in back carb. I repositioned all the injectors as far foward in injector plate as possible from where they were and plugged old holes with old injectors. moving the fronts .800 forward got afrs down into 15s on front cylinders, progressively adding 10, 15 , 20, 25% fuel to front injectors at 110,120, 130 map got front into the mid 13s, also put highest flowing injectors in front after running them on my ASNU machine and lowest flowing in rear. 7/8 went from 10.5 to 13.5 from moving the injectors a inch, moved them back, now those are back to 10.5/11.0. long story short, its a horrid afr mess, i cant imagine somone sticking two square jetted carbs or 8 mechanical injectors on pone of these and not seeing egts or afrs on a dyno, would almost guarantee to melt a piston even with 'good" average tailpipe readings.
this isnt a boat engine but the kind of truck it is is called a 'play bogger" so these guys stay in throttle for a minute or longer, not 3 seconds but I can guarantee some blown boat engines face same issues. Those two cylinders you cooked werent at 12.2 or 11.8, whatever it was you had target at, they were probably 14-1 or higher. I actually called you a few hrs ago when driving to borrow some pulleys to talk about these horrid numbers, lol. Youll be doing yourself a big favor by having ben or dan tune yours with 10 o2 sensors or egts in long run!
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