Originally Posted by articfriends (Post 4840904)

Received the injectors, did a initial before cleaning flow test. Found #7 stuck at about 20% open vs the rest during first test , #4 down 30% or so (flowing 60 cc vs a average of 80, 85 .. I then cleaned the 2 bad injectors first (in my ultrasonic while toggling the pintles), I didn't really expect 7 to straighten out but it did, , retested , they now flowed fine against the other 6.
I then cleaned all of them extensively, installed new inlet screens , ran them on a test on a warm.up cycle on my machine called inductance test for 2 hours pretty constantly. They never sputtered, stuck, acted up at all.
I then performed all my normal test at different rpms, pw, etc and a auto sweep test. They all flowed within the spec of +/-4%.
Since it's a boosted engune and it sees 50,55 psi of fuel pressure, I did my higher rpm/ms test at 50 psi vs 3 bar as I have seen injectors act much worse at higher pressures and hot, so I always try to replicate real world.
There on their way back, boats gonna be night and day different. I made a video showing #7 stuck but even after being on here 16 years, I still have never figured out how to upload a video, just says mp4 something or another not correct format. Here's a picture though of some of the rust that came out of the injector screens when I was extracting them.

Originally Posted by boatnt (Post 4840909)

Question is,where did the rust come from? Seen a few fuel rails rust internally.

Originally Posted by Griff (Post 4840906)

That is good news for him and most likely his entire issue.

The only way to get a video on OSO is to upload it to Youtube and then copy and paste the URL for the video.

Originally Posted by articfriends (Post 4840904)

Received the injectors, did a initial before cleaning flow test. Found #7 stuck at about 20% open vs the rest during first test , #4 down 30% or so (flowing 60 cc vs a average of 80, 85 .. I then cleaned the 2 bad injectors first (in my ultrasonic while toggling the pintles), I didn't really expect 7 to straighten out but it did, , retested , they now flowed fine against the other 6.
I then cleaned all of them extensively, installed new inlet screens , ran them on a test on a warm.up cycle on my machine called inductance test for 2 hours pretty constantly. They never sputtered, stuck, acted up at all.
I then performed all my normal test at different rpms, pw, etc and a auto sweep test. They all flowed within the spec of +/-4%.
Since it's a boosted engune and it sees 50,55 psi of fuel pressure, I did my higher rpm/ms test at 50 psi vs 3 bar as I have seen injectors act much worse at higher pressures and hot, so I always try to replicate real world.
There on their way back, boats gonna be night and day different. I made a video showing #7 stuck but even after being on here 16 years, I still have never figured out how to upload a video, just says mp4 something or another not correct format. Here's a picture though of some of the rust that came out of the injector screens when I was extracting them.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1a6a8366e5.jpg

Originally Posted by SB (Post 4840914)

So, another reason to do the following winterization strp i learned from member sutphen30 very long time ago.

Remove water separator (add new or dump out) snd fill with fresh fuel 2 stroke oil mix. Many 2 stroke oils have fuel stabilizer mixed in. If not, add a splash of stabil. Run engine, when you see slight blue smoke from exhaust , the mix is in and being burnt. I do this for all fuel injected snd carbed engines.

Some people remove inlet line at separator and hook small gas filled of this mix to inlet and then run engine.

Not a good typer. Hope that makes sense.

Edit in: I just did that to this sea doo boat other day. You can see the fuel line i added to inlet so i could run on a small 2 gal gas can (not pictured) premix of fuel/oil.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...563464706.jpeg

Originally Posted by SB (Post 4840912)

Good stuff ArcticFriends and OP. :thumbs
Smart move to pull injectors and then send to arctic.
I uses vaseline too until i got a big tube of food grade oring silicone grease for our osmosis and ultraviolet water filter system. I now use that. :) I’ll take pic in a bit.



Exactly that.
Edit in: i have pulled several water separators off boats that where internally rusty. Couple extremely rusty. I slways see what pours out when i change them.


I see it on cars/trucks. Usually the injector that has it’s screen filled with rust junk first is the one at a dead end of a fuel rail. Like #7 cyl on a 5.3l ls powered truck for example. I’ll find pic of fuel line on intake.

Originally Posted by bigc (Post 3919412)

I have been going through this problem for the last 2 weeks . I replaced and checked everything . I took apart booth of my filter housings .(spin on type ) I found a bee lodged in the last barbed fitting that I checked. Wtf. seems to have cured it.

Originally Posted by Raylar (Post 3679991)

Paddles:

I've seen a few such fuel situations in quite a few early model Merc 496's. In those cases it was caused by the inside of the injector fuel rail rusting inside from moisture in the fuel system especially from sitting in winter to summer temperature variations. You have a 2002 engine with only about 100 hours use and that means it has sat way to much unused!
First put a fuel pressure guage on the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail and check the fuel pressure at , key on engine not running, engine on idling, vacuum line disconnected from fuel pressure regulator on Cool fuel regulator under the black plastic cover and then at speed when the engine sputters, and stalls.
The key on fuel pressure should be about 43-45 psi and about the same when engine on a idling with vacuum to the regulator pinched off or disconnected and should stay up between 40-43 psi when running at 3000 rpms. If there are issues with the fuel pressure from these readings then the problem could be in the fuel filter, fuel pump side of the system.
If however these readings all seem to be good then it could be the dreaded rust in the fuel rail problem! The check for this involves removing the fuel rail and injectors and carefully removing the injectors, giving a good look up inside the fuel rail for signs of rusting and debris. When take the injectors out of the rail, turn them upside down over a nice white paper towel and spray some good carb cleaner up into the inlet side of the injector where the fine screen is and then tapping the injector down onto the towel and see what comes out. If you get any real debris out of the injector this way you should have the injectors cleaned and re-flowed by an injector service shop or replace all the injectors. You will also have to replace the fuel rail itself with the newer ones which were finally plated by GM in later models to stop this problem.
I am not saying this is definitly what is wrong here, but with early 2000 Merc 496's that sat alot it has been a big problem.

A sitting unused for long periods marine engine is a problem waiting to happen.

Hope this helps and let us know what you find or figure out on the engine and its problem.

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar

Originally Posted by articfriends (Post 4840921)

Figured as much!

Originally Posted by Brad Christy (Post 4840925)

I got a small packet of what appears to be white, semi-translucent grease from Mosetti with the new plug wires, presumably to lubricate the boots. Would this be the silicone grease we are all referring to?
Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991

Originally Posted by Brad Christy (Post 4840925)

Smitty,

Thanks for the quick turnaround. I can't wait to get it all back together.

I wondered about using anything "petroleum" on O-rings. I know things like motor oil and WD-40 will attack standard Buna-N O-rings, causing them to swell and soften up. Didn't know if Vaseline did this as well.

I got a small packet of what appears to be white, semi-translucent grease from Mosetti with the new plug wires, presumably to lubricate the boots. Would this be the silicone grease we are all referring to?

Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991

Originally Posted by SB (Post 4840914)

So, another reason to do the following winterization strp i learned from member sutphen30 very long time ago.

Remove water separator (add new or dump out) snd fill with fresh fuel 2 stroke oil mix. Many 2 stroke oils have fuel stabilizer mixed in. If not, add a splash of stabil. Run engine, when you see slight blue smoke from exhaust , the mix is in and being burnt. I do this for all fuel injected snd carbed engines.

Some people remove inlet line at separator and hook small gas filled of this mix to inlet and then run engine.

Not a good typer. Hope that makes sense.

Edit in: I just did that to this sea doo boat other day. You can see the fuel line i added to inlet so i could run on a small 2 gal gas can (not pictured) premix of fuel/oil.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...563464706.jpeg

Originally Posted by PA.WOODCHUCK (Post 4840962)

Can you upload to YouTube or Facebook??

Originally Posted by SB (Post 4840994)

Damn !

Originally Posted by cheech (Post 4840992)

Here is video.
# 7 Injector - YouTube

Originally Posted by Brad Christy (Post 4841002)

Guys,

I will have to refill the coolant reservoir after it is installed. Is there anything special about the coolant that was in it? (something other than green... orange, maybe...?)

Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991

Originally Posted by Brad Christy (Post 4841001)

SB,

RiGhT...?

Not only is #7 pretty obvious, but I could swear #4 looks to be a reduced flow. I'm convinced I've found all the validation I need.

Coolant reservoir is in, I just have to go pick it up (Merc wouldn't drop ship it to me. I have to go to the marine shop). Filter/Separator is in. Still waiting on the inline filter. I'd expect the injectors to arrive tomorrow. I'll be pulling the fuel rail out completely in the morning to give it a really close inspection and thorough cleaning. I hope to have the boat in the water this weekend for an eval.

News at eleven.....

Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991

Originally Posted by underpsi68 (Post 4841005)

Any video after the service? That spray pattern looks pretty narrow?

Originally Posted by Brad Christy (Post 4841001)

SB,

RiGhT...?

Not only is #7 pretty obvious, but I could swear #4 looks to be a reduced flow. I'm convinced I've found all the validation I need.

Coolant reservoir is in, I just have to go pick it up (Merc wouldn't drop ship it to me. I have to go to the marine shop). Filter/Separator is in. Still waiting on the inline filter. I'd expect the injectors to arrive tomorrow. I'll be pulling the fuel rail out completely in the morning to give it a really close inspection and thorough cleaning. I hope to have the boat in the water this weekend for an eval.

News at eleven.....

Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991

Originally Posted by articfriends (Post 4841018)

You can see re-watching this before cleaning video that 4 was weaker then the rest. I was doing that preliminary test Saturday after I opened the box while my wife was literally waiting in car in front of the shop rolling her eyes for me to leave for a family event, LOL

Originally Posted by Brad Christy (Post 4841090)

Guys,

I'd really like to disassemble this fuel rail; the bridge tube from the left and right rails. This would allow me to ensure it to be as clean as I can muster. It would appear to be able to be separated, but I can't seem to get it to pull apart. Anybody know the secret?

Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991

Originally Posted by Ryan00TJ (Post 4841092)

The bridge is called the crossover. A die grinder will get it apart......
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...17bfd2c16d.jpg

Originally Posted by Brad Christy (Post 4841094)

Ryan,

So, I’m hearing they don’t come apart….?

Thanks. Brad.
(937)545-8991

Originally Posted by DrFeelgood (Post 4841095)

Sounds like they do, but requiring permanent modification