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-   -   Wide band o2 sensor location (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/376576-wide-band-o2-sensor-location.html)

ubet28 07-31-2022 07:46 PM

Wide band o2 sensor location
 
So I put 2 widebando2 sensors in this location see pictures. And they don’t seem to be working correctly.

I wired them to the blower switch on the dash so I could turn them on before firing the boat and also leave them on for a bit after running the boat. Figured it would help with longevity.

so took the boat out and fired it up at idle to start they were reading 12 didn’t think anything of it. Got to going down the water at cruise I was reading 14.6 14.8 they never move they seem to stay there so much that I feel like they are not reading correctly.

stayed on the lake last night went to leave this morning and they didn’t read at all. Now that could be my fault I fired the boat before I turned the switch on. So not sure.

was hoping someone could help me out. Thanks Jeramy
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...818bfd0ba.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...4a9d265fc.jpeg

Rookie 07-31-2022 08:19 PM

Same place I have mine. I do have O2 extenders.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...24d268bfa7.jpg

liberator221 07-31-2022 08:29 PM

What O2 set up?

ubet28 07-31-2022 10:10 PM


Originally Posted by liberator221 (Post 4840067)
What O2 set up?

https://www.autometer.com/2-5-8-wide...bon-fiber.html

Griff 07-31-2022 10:26 PM

Is the header inner wall welded to the outer wall similar to this?? https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...sor-bungs.html

liberator221 08-01-2022 06:22 AM

I just went through about a year and a half deal with auto meter on this gauge. Talked to their tech department several times.
When gauge goes little over 14 and does not move there has been some sort of voltage fluctuation or interference that disrupted the processor in the gauge and shut it down. I finally ran power for AFR to its own relay and gave it a dedicated 12v supply. Per their instructions I hooked the red power wire and the brown wire together so gauge initiates right away rather than waiting on increased voltage from charging system. Ran ground wire from helm to cylinder head. They did not want it hooked to battery.
In the end I found a bad connector for the ground wire at the gauge. Wire would not lock in to the hard shell.
One of the techs I talked to said they have seen problems with unit staying in the preheat mode due to weld in bung acting as heat sink in water jacketed manifold preventing O2 sensor from heating up enough to read.
My opinion: Auto meter put “marine” on the face of this gauge, said it was for marine application, and didn’t do enough research and testing. They seem to be finaky.

87MirageIntruder 08-01-2022 09:55 AM


Originally Posted by liberator221 (Post 4840083)
I just went through about a year and a half deal with auto meter on this gauge. Talked to their tech department several times.
When gauge goes little over 14 and does not move there has been some sort of voltage fluctuation or interference that disrupted the processor in the gauge and shut it down. I finally ran power for AFR to its own relay and gave it a dedicated 12v supply. Per their instructions I hooked the red power wire and the brown wire together so gauge initiates right away rather than waiting on increased voltage from charging system. Ran ground wire from helm to cylinder head. They did not want it hooked to battery.
In the end I found a bad connector for the ground wire at the gauge. Wire would not lock in to the hard shell.
One of the techs I talked to said they have seen problems with unit staying in the preheat mode due to weld in bung acting as heat sink in water jacketed manifold preventing O2 sensor from heating up enough to read.
My opinion: Auto meter put “marine” on the face of this gauge, said it was for marine application, and didn’t do enough research and testing. They seem to be finaky.

I'm fighting my Auto Meter also. It stays in preheat mode. I've hooked the brown and power wire together too. Every once in a while it will function and work, but most of the time it stay is pre heat mode. I've changed out the sensor a few times. Added another ground to the dash. I think these are just not a great product for this application.

liberator221 08-01-2022 11:03 AM


Originally Posted by 87MirageIntruder (Post 4840106)
I'm fighting my Auto Meter also. It stays in preheat mode. I've hooked the brown and power wire together too. Every once in a while it will function and work, but most of the time it stay is pre heat mode. I've changed out the sensor a few times. Added another ground to the dash. I think these are just not a great product for this application.

That was one of my problems also. When checking resistance from gauge to sensor I found the bad pin in connector at gauge. They sent a new harness and I think problem is fixed. They are very sensitive to voltage fluctuation.

Ryan00TJ 08-01-2022 11:50 AM

Switch to AEM. 4th year on my setup. No problems. Also uses the Bosch 4.9 sensor vs the older 4.2 the Autometer uses.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...fb084b6705.jpg

ubet28 08-01-2022 03:24 PM


Originally Posted by liberator221 (Post 4840083)
I just went through about a year and a half deal with auto meter on this gauge. Talked to their tech department several times.
When gauge goes little over 14 and does not move there has been some sort of voltage fluctuation or interference that disrupted the processor in the gauge and shut it down. I finally ran power for AFR to its own relay and gave it a dedicated 12v supply. Per their instructions I hooked the red power wire and the brown wire together so gauge initiates right away rather than waiting on increased voltage from charging system. Ran ground wire from helm to cylinder head. They did not want it hooked to battery.
In the end I found a bad connector for the ground wire at the gauge. Wire would not lock in to the hard shell.
One of the techs I talked to said they have seen problems with unit staying in the preheat mode due to weld in bung acting as heat sink in water jacketed manifold preventing O2 sensor from heating up enough to read.
My opinion: Auto meter put “marine” on the face of this gauge, said it was for marine application, and didn’t do enough research and testing. They seem to be finaky.


so does yours actually work now?

I did just remember I had some 100LL in my tanks you think that could of had anything to do with it.

it’s just wired how the gauges wont

liberator221 08-01-2022 06:28 PM


Originally Posted by ubet28 (Post 4840158)
so does yours actually work now?

I did just remember I had some 100LL in my tanks you think that could of had anything to do with it.

it’s just wired how the gauges wont

When I found the loose pin I pushed it in and secured the wires as well as I could, and it seemed to work pretty well. Not 100% but best to date. Got back home and installed new harness they had shipped but have not been back on water. On trailer it preheats and starts reading every time, but as said haven’t been back on water.
Ryan the auto meter does use Bosch 049 sensor.

ICDEDPPL 08-02-2022 06:53 PM

That seems really close to the tip, you check if theyre getting wet ?
I had some reversion at idle so I used to do the opposite, wait till I was on plane and running, making sure the 0`s were nice and dry and then turn them on.
Whats makes you think turning them on early and shutting them off late would help with lifespan? I wouldn`t run them at idle
2 things kill 02s , heat and water . You might also be reverting air since the tails are so short

ICDEDPPL 08-02-2022 06:54 PM

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...2bad5ef9d4.jpg

zz28zz 08-02-2022 08:29 PM

Are you guys using spark plug de-foulers (or similar) for your o2 sensors? I've heard nothing but good things from folks using them.

Rookie 08-02-2022 09:07 PM


Originally Posted by zz28zz (Post 4840354)
Are you guys using spark plug de-foulers (or similar) for your o2 sensors? I've heard nothing but good things from folks using them.

I run these. Smitty and I ran them back to back on the dyno with no issues.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/353868551416
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6c8fa7d4d9.jpg


ubet28 08-05-2022 09:31 PM


Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL (Post 4840344)
That seems really close to the tip, you check if theyre getting wet ?
I had some reversion at idle so I used to do the opposite, wait till I was on plane and running, making sure the 0`s were nice and dry and then turn them on.
Whats makes you think turning them on early and shutting them off late would help with lifespan? I wouldn`t run them at idle
2 things kill 02s , heat and water . You might also be reverting air since the tails are so short

To be honest i was told to hook them up that way. So that’s what I did. Should I not turn them on before hand?

Ryan00TJ 08-06-2022 09:14 PM


Originally Posted by ubet28 (Post 4840625)
To be honest i was told to hook them up that way. So that’s what I did. Should I not turn them on before hand?

My AEM info for my bosch 4.9 sensors says to never run engine with no power to 02 sensor. Always allow 02 sensor to heat up before starting engine for optimal sensor life.


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