Wide band o2 sensor location
07-31-2022 | 07:46 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 278
Likes: 126
From: Normal IL
Wide band o2 sensor location
So I put 2 widebando2 sensors in this location see pictures. And they don’t seem to be working correctly.
I wired them to the blower switch on the dash so I could turn them on before firing the boat and also leave them on for a bit after running the boat. Figured it would help with longevity.
so took the boat out and fired it up at idle to start they were reading 12 didn’t think anything of it. Got to going down the water at cruise I was reading 14.6 14.8 they never move they seem to stay there so much that I feel like they are not reading correctly.
stayed on the lake last night went to leave this morning and they didn’t read at all. Now that could be my fault I fired the boat before I turned the switch on. So not sure.
was hoping someone could help me out. Thanks Jeramy
I wired them to the blower switch on the dash so I could turn them on before firing the boat and also leave them on for a bit after running the boat. Figured it would help with longevity.
so took the boat out and fired it up at idle to start they were reading 12 didn’t think anything of it. Got to going down the water at cruise I was reading 14.6 14.8 they never move they seem to stay there so much that I feel like they are not reading correctly.
stayed on the lake last night went to leave this morning and they didn’t read at all. Now that could be my fault I fired the boat before I turned the switch on. So not sure.
was hoping someone could help me out. Thanks Jeramy
Last edited by ubet28; 07-31-2022 at 08:28 PM.
07-31-2022 | 10:10 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 278
Likes: 126
From: Normal IL
07-31-2022 | 10:26 PM
#5
Charter Member # 55
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 20,247
Likes: 2,495
From: Omaha/LOTO
Is the header inner wall welded to the outer wall similar to this?? How to install oxygen sensor bungs.
08-01-2022 | 06:22 AM
#6
Registered
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 627
Likes: 408
From: Indiana
I just went through about a year and a half deal with auto meter on this gauge. Talked to their tech department several times.
When gauge goes little over 14 and does not move there has been some sort of voltage fluctuation or interference that disrupted the processor in the gauge and shut it down. I finally ran power for AFR to its own relay and gave it a dedicated 12v supply. Per their instructions I hooked the red power wire and the brown wire together so gauge initiates right away rather than waiting on increased voltage from charging system. Ran ground wire from helm to cylinder head. They did not want it hooked to battery.
In the end I found a bad connector for the ground wire at the gauge. Wire would not lock in to the hard shell.
One of the techs I talked to said they have seen problems with unit staying in the preheat mode due to weld in bung acting as heat sink in water jacketed manifold preventing O2 sensor from heating up enough to read.
My opinion: Auto meter put “marine” on the face of this gauge, said it was for marine application, and didn’t do enough research and testing. They seem to be finaky.
When gauge goes little over 14 and does not move there has been some sort of voltage fluctuation or interference that disrupted the processor in the gauge and shut it down. I finally ran power for AFR to its own relay and gave it a dedicated 12v supply. Per their instructions I hooked the red power wire and the brown wire together so gauge initiates right away rather than waiting on increased voltage from charging system. Ran ground wire from helm to cylinder head. They did not want it hooked to battery.
In the end I found a bad connector for the ground wire at the gauge. Wire would not lock in to the hard shell.
One of the techs I talked to said they have seen problems with unit staying in the preheat mode due to weld in bung acting as heat sink in water jacketed manifold preventing O2 sensor from heating up enough to read.
My opinion: Auto meter put “marine” on the face of this gauge, said it was for marine application, and didn’t do enough research and testing. They seem to be finaky.
08-01-2022 | 09:55 AM
#7
Registered
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 583
Likes: 363
From: Portland OR
I just went through about a year and a half deal with auto meter on this gauge. Talked to their tech department several times.
When gauge goes little over 14 and does not move there has been some sort of voltage fluctuation or interference that disrupted the processor in the gauge and shut it down. I finally ran power for AFR to its own relay and gave it a dedicated 12v supply. Per their instructions I hooked the red power wire and the brown wire together so gauge initiates right away rather than waiting on increased voltage from charging system. Ran ground wire from helm to cylinder head. They did not want it hooked to battery.
In the end I found a bad connector for the ground wire at the gauge. Wire would not lock in to the hard shell.
One of the techs I talked to said they have seen problems with unit staying in the preheat mode due to weld in bung acting as heat sink in water jacketed manifold preventing O2 sensor from heating up enough to read.
My opinion: Auto meter put “marine” on the face of this gauge, said it was for marine application, and didn’t do enough research and testing. They seem to be finaky.
When gauge goes little over 14 and does not move there has been some sort of voltage fluctuation or interference that disrupted the processor in the gauge and shut it down. I finally ran power for AFR to its own relay and gave it a dedicated 12v supply. Per their instructions I hooked the red power wire and the brown wire together so gauge initiates right away rather than waiting on increased voltage from charging system. Ran ground wire from helm to cylinder head. They did not want it hooked to battery.
In the end I found a bad connector for the ground wire at the gauge. Wire would not lock in to the hard shell.
One of the techs I talked to said they have seen problems with unit staying in the preheat mode due to weld in bung acting as heat sink in water jacketed manifold preventing O2 sensor from heating up enough to read.
My opinion: Auto meter put “marine” on the face of this gauge, said it was for marine application, and didn’t do enough research and testing. They seem to be finaky.
08-01-2022 | 11:03 AM
#8
Registered
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 627
Likes: 408
From: Indiana
I'm fighting my Auto Meter also. It stays in preheat mode. I've hooked the brown and power wire together too. Every once in a while it will function and work, but most of the time it stay is pre heat mode. I've changed out the sensor a few times. Added another ground to the dash. I think these are just not a great product for this application.
08-01-2022 | 03:24 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 278
Likes: 126
From: Normal IL
I just went through about a year and a half deal with auto meter on this gauge. Talked to their tech department several times.
When gauge goes little over 14 and does not move there has been some sort of voltage fluctuation or interference that disrupted the processor in the gauge and shut it down. I finally ran power for AFR to its own relay and gave it a dedicated 12v supply. Per their instructions I hooked the red power wire and the brown wire together so gauge initiates right away rather than waiting on increased voltage from charging system. Ran ground wire from helm to cylinder head. They did not want it hooked to battery.
In the end I found a bad connector for the ground wire at the gauge. Wire would not lock in to the hard shell.
One of the techs I talked to said they have seen problems with unit staying in the preheat mode due to weld in bung acting as heat sink in water jacketed manifold preventing O2 sensor from heating up enough to read.
My opinion: Auto meter put “marine” on the face of this gauge, said it was for marine application, and didn’t do enough research and testing. They seem to be finaky.
When gauge goes little over 14 and does not move there has been some sort of voltage fluctuation or interference that disrupted the processor in the gauge and shut it down. I finally ran power for AFR to its own relay and gave it a dedicated 12v supply. Per their instructions I hooked the red power wire and the brown wire together so gauge initiates right away rather than waiting on increased voltage from charging system. Ran ground wire from helm to cylinder head. They did not want it hooked to battery.
In the end I found a bad connector for the ground wire at the gauge. Wire would not lock in to the hard shell.
One of the techs I talked to said they have seen problems with unit staying in the preheat mode due to weld in bung acting as heat sink in water jacketed manifold preventing O2 sensor from heating up enough to read.
My opinion: Auto meter put “marine” on the face of this gauge, said it was for marine application, and didn’t do enough research and testing. They seem to be finaky.
so does yours actually work now?
I did just remember I had some 100LL in my tanks you think that could of had anything to do with it.
it’s just wired how the gauges wont
