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Originally Posted by Brad Christy
(Post 4849511)
Dagwell,
What's your drive ratio? Any slop in the gimbal? I can't imagine Sunsation would have sold a boat that listed that bad. Stock power? I ask about drive ratio because prop pitch is the major contributing factor for torque roll. You could maybe drop pitch and increase drive ratio and reduce torque roll. We go about it differently, being direct drive, but we can often reduce prop walk in our model boats by reducing pitch and running the engine in a higher RPM range. Thanks. Brad. (937)545-8991 |
Originally Posted by Padraig
(Post 4849514)
Have you talked with the folks at Sunsation? That would be my first call.
Padraig |
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...de1f57e4e.jpeg
So, I was reading these reply’s and just thought about something. There is a repair on the (not sure it’s real name) plate below the prop. And it sticks out about a 1/4” more on the starboard side. Could that be my problem? If so maybe I’ll just grind down the weld and try that. |
its called a skeg and I would remove it
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Originally Posted by Dagwell
(Post 4849544)
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...de1f57e4e.jpeg
So, I was reading these reply’s and just thought about something. There is a repair on the (not sure it’s real name) plate below the prop. And it sticks out about a 1/4” more on the starboard side. Could that be my problem? If so maybe I’ll just grind down the weld and try that. I cannot imagine it not having an effect. If you do grind it down, and the torque roll is still there, I'd be more inclined to follow SB's train of thought. Seeing as you're new to boating, it might be fair to consider operator error. There is more to driving a boat than throttle and steering. With both boats I've owned, I would set the drive trim all the way down for take-off, which helps to get it on plane quicker with less bow rise, then trim it up to achieve proper ride attitude. When I trim up after planing, I can actually feel the boat free up. What happens is the bow lifts a bit, which gets more of the boat out of the water, allowing for less wetted surface. The "bow steering" that SB mentions comes from the bow being pushed down into the oncoming water. When you take off, do follow a similar process, or leave it where it is, wherever that may be? Try and have a friend take a pic or video of your boat on plane from the side. This will tell us a lot about how the boat rides, as far as attitude. Further.... When you grind that weld bead away, do you best to keep the trailing edge as sharp as you can, but minimal rounding. The sharper the trailing edge, the more efficient the movement through the water, due to the Bernoulli effect. Don't leave it so sharp it will cut skin, but don't round it off, either. And, for the record.... That boat should run pretty well with that 28P Bravo1 prop. I get ~76MPH out of my PQ280 with one. And no torque roll. Thanks. Brad. (937)545-8991 |
Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
(Post 4849545)
its called a skeg and I would remove it
Remove the weld bead. Not the skeg. :angry-smiley-038: Thanks. Brad. (937)545-8991 |
Originally Posted by Dagwell
(Post 4849543)
I have not. But I guess that’s a good place to try.
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Originally Posted by Brad Christy
(Post 4849546)
Dagwood,
I cannot imagine it not having an effect. If you do grind it down, and the torque roll is still there, I'd me more inclined to follow SB's train of thought. Seeing as you're new to boating, it might be fair to consider operator error. There is more to driving a boat than throttle and steering. With both boats I've owned, I would set the drive trim all the way down for take-off, which helps to get it on plane quicker with less bow rise, then trim it up to achieve proper ride attitude. When I trim up after planing, I can actually feel the boat free up. What happens is the bow lifts a bit, which gets more of the boat out of the water, allowing for less wetted surface. The "bow steering" that SB mentions comes from the bow being pushed into the oncoming water. When you take off, do follow a similar process, or leave it where it is, wherever that may be? Try and have a friend take a pic or video of your boat on plane from the side. This will tell us a lot about how the boat rides, as far as attitude. Further.... When you grind that weld bead away, do you best to keep the trailing edge as sharp as you can, but minimal rounding. The sharper the trailing edge, the more efficient the movement through the water, due to the Bernoulli effect. Don't leave it so sharp it will cut skin, but don't round it off, either. And, for the record.... That boat should run pretty well with that 28P Bravo1 prop. I get ~76MPH out of my PQ280 with one. And no torque roll. Thanks. Brad. (937)545-8991 |
Originally Posted by Brad Christy
(Post 4849547)
Dagwell,
Remove the weld bead. Not the skeg. :angry-smiley-038: Thanks. Brad. (937)545-8991 |
Maybe it's just the picture but is sure looks like the skeg is significantly bent to the side and someone has attached something to the trailing edge of it that should not be there.
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