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Do I need oil temp gages?

Old 03-08-2023, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by PQ290Enticer
I am not trying to beat this dead horse but I am confused yet again. I have attached a pic of an oil thermostat housing (offered by a company who should know?) and it shows the direction of plumbing is again contrary to advice given here on this site. I do agree with the advice given on this site that hotter oil is best sent to the filter first then to the cooler however I don't think this "thermostat housing" will operate properly if I don't follow their install instructions. I still have the "in-line" connection point for the oil temp sending unit so I could still get an accurate reading but with this thermostat I would be sending cooled oil to the filter. Maybe I should run as is and see if I actually need an oil thermostat? Post #70 shows what I currently have as a cooler and block adapter. My engines are 500hp. Thanks for your comments and advice.
If I had to do it over again I would do it this way. However I already had the Canton Racing block adapter. This should work great for easier plumbing with the block adapter and thermostat in one unit. Always filter the oil last, its your last chance to protect your engine.
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Old 03-08-2023, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
that sensor is not designed for that fitting, why would you want to introduce restriction in an oil line
I agree ! Donít dooooooooo itttt ! Holy blockage.
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Old 03-08-2023, 05:10 PM
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FYI, Following is an article straight from Engine Labs.comSo what temperature can you run in your car/engine?

That is quite a loaded question and near impossible to answer without a lot of testing. We can give it our best shot, though. Most passenger cars are perfectly fine with oil temps up to 240-260 degrees F *utilizing the OEM recommended oil weight*, with some being designed to handle temps up to 315 Degrees F and higher! How can this be? Standard oil these days have flash temps well over 200 C (400 degrees F), and as long as there is sufficient oil pressure, the oil does not care what temperature it is at. That being said, utilizing an OEM engine and OEM clearances, we would suggest sticking to the OEM oil weight up to around (240-250 Deg. F). If it makes you feel safer, run a bit thicker oil but with thicker oil, comes increased engine wear at cooler temperatures and increased heat into the oil through more friction and less flow (Above this temperature, we would recommend increasing the hot temperature weight to ensure sufficient oil pressure. Due to each engine having different optimum operating conditions, we cannot recommend a pressure/RPM to shoot for.
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Old 03-08-2023, 05:13 PM
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Running with oil coolers and no thermostats has always made a bit of sludge in my motors. Check under the valve covers, and it was worse when i pulled the intake. So rather than adding thermostats and extra hoses and all the little bit of extra weight that comes with it, and getting in the way of other stuff, and potential leak points, I decided to remove the coolers and run the filters right on the block with nothing else. This was after i saw this article and talked to two oil company tech folks about what modern oils can handle. . Oil does run warm but i have never seen such clean motors in my life. Cruising fairly hard around 4400 and a couple of WOT half minute passes I saw 300F on a warm summer day. Rest of the summer on average it runs around 225 to 250F.

Stock motors though except for exhaust, roller rockers, and advanced timing.

Last edited by Cap'm Kurt; 03-08-2023 at 05:28 PM.
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