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Old 01-16-2023, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by DrFeelgood View Post
Somewhat related question, hypothetically speaking, if a good running motor (not blown up, not damaged) is refreshed with new stock size bearings, is it reasonable to assume that the prior bearing clearances remain the same as they were before?
No. Bearing shells are different thicknesses. The reason you do the bearing shuffle to get them as close together as you can.
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Old 01-17-2023, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by PQ290Enticer View Post
Mains are .0025 on one and the rods are .0035. The other engine Mains are .0027 and the rods are .0025. My builder didn't say to run 10w30 when installed in the boat. He just used it for the dyno runs. Maybe this is what he's thinking. I will be meeting him next week and will ask what his thoughts are. I've been told that I could run the 20w50 if I wanted to, it would raise the pressure(?) but not to a level that may hurt the filter? Again, an exploding oil filter is something that never occurred to me.
those are tight mains, not great for marine engines hope his balancing is right, oil weight is determined by clearancing. As far as brand? Many do well, I don't know of one engine failure caused by a bad brand of oil. Any oil will actually do the job, after tons of wrguements I simply ran 20/50 Castrol gtx in my 572's nonissues Eddie Young told me that's what he's been using for years, so if it's good for him, it was good for me and I can get it anywhere
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Old 01-24-2023, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Knot 4 Me View Post
Yet another oil thread! I'll bite anyway. I can give real world experience on M1 as that is all I ever ran in any of my boat engines. I had a 400+ hour 496 bend a rod when it hydrolocked a cylinder due to missing shutters in the y-pipe. I asked the builder how the internals looked and he it was spotless and bearings looked new. All I ever ran was M1 15W50. Broke the rebuilt engine in on VR-1 then swapped back over.
I used VR-1 to break in as well, then switched to M1 V-Twin. Any reason not to keep running VR-1 beyond break in? Seems like it has everything the engine is looking for
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Old 01-24-2023, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by CheckmateScarab View Post
I used VR-1 to break in as well, then switched to M1 V-Twin. Any reason not to keep running VR-1 beyond break in? Seems like it has everything the engine is looking for
Only reason I swapped back to M1 from VR-1 was convenience. 496 took 10 quarts so 2, 5 quart jugs of M1 readily available at Wally World made oil changes easy. VR-1 is a solid marine oil IMO as are many other brands. Just pick the right viscosity and change it at the appropriate intervals and you should never have an oil related issue (assuming you have your temps under control).

Last edited by Knot 4 Me; 01-24-2023 at 02:00 PM.
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Old 01-25-2023, 10:24 AM
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Just an FYI the 10770 Melling oil pump is a high volume pump, but it does also come with the 70psi high pressure spring installed. In the box are a HD oil pump shaft, and a lower pressure "standard" 60psi relief spring if you chose to swap springs out. It would be nice to know if your engine builder left the pump as is out of the box or if he swapped out the springs. The standard springs are just a dark black looking metal, and the higher pressure springs generally have purple paint on them. You can also tell the difference if you try to squeeze the springs side by side also.

The Melling 10778 pump is the same as the 10770, but adds chromoly shaft, a threaded plug for the spring, doweled cover plate, and the shafts are extended into the cover plate for more high rpm stability.

Last edited by 87MirageIntruder; 01-25-2023 at 10:28 AM.
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