There is no full wet scenario, the exhaust is dry when it leaves the exhaust port of the cylinder head, water is not introduced inside the manifold (or header), but rather after it, in the riser or tailpipe sections.

Prior to the point where water is introduced to the exhaust gas, it's only in the cooling jacket of the manifold or header.

No, he has water jacketed dry headers, Ive dynoed there before I had my own dyno. So his water leaves header jacket then goes into return w a hose, exhaust stream has no water in it, Smitty

It's the same situation that allows a lot of people on this board to have A/F monitors (O2 sensors) in their boat even with wet exhaust.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7340a036e9.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6c21b16118.jpg
We dyno all boat engines wet. Once the water is mixed you can use schedule 40 to route it outside. In pic you can see one of our adapters we made to go from 5 inch down to 4 inch. Also you can use your o2 sensor in adapters or we also have bungs in tail pipes.

[QUOTE=DrFeelgood;4858129]There is no full wet scenario, the exhaust is dry when it leaves the exhaust port of the cylinder head, water is not introduced inside the manifold (or header), but rather after it, in the riser or tailpipe sections.

Prior to the point where water is introduced to the exhaust gas, it's only in the cooling jacket of the manifold or header.[/QUOTE


Thank you

Tyler has always done my Dyno work.

What kind of headers are those? And are you ready to sell the PR at fire sale recession prices yet? I could even trade you a 32 for it! LOL
firesale

Lol keeping the PR for now. They are CMI big tube, 2 1/4 inch primary. We took the boat to CMI and they custom built the pipes for it.

Hey put me at the front of the line!

Yep, thats how Im NOT going to do it, having done it that way in the past and trying to get away from the mess not to mention that I often dyno in winter time too. I DO have a good idea now after thinking about it for a week though!