naturally aspirated 496 stroker. AFR heads, 10.25:1 compression, Holley 850 carb with a 1 inch spacer, edelbock airgap, Gil exhaust manifolds, Elgin cam e1143p. Bunch of other stuff too, that’s just the quick and dirty.

That’s alot of cam. Exhaust dry ? Ignition have lots of initial advance ?
Ooopps, sorry. Oil cooler thread. 3x 18” should be okay (i may be in colder water being in central nh)


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...029ef7960b.png

3x18 should work for you (rated up to 700HP) if you go the tube cooler mounted to engine route.

They also have the flat coolers that go inside the bell housing which are supposed to be more efficient.

And then you have large performance coolers you mount on the boat.

Here's a thread I just posted recently looking for an oil cooler upgrade for my mildly built HP 500. Ended up getting a stock replacement from Mr. Cool after all said and done.

https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...r-upgrade.html

big cam. Yes it’s going to lope at idle. Wet exhaust with Gil manifolds and risers. I’m excited. Finally got the right pushrod length tool checker to get the length measured tomorrow.

246°/246° 110° LS on wet exhaust and it might not "lope" at idle. It might be drowning in reversion.

it’s why I’m going with a side exit exhaust. vacuum created should pull air back instead of water. Might have to rig something up though to extend where the water dumps from the riser further into the exhaust to achieve it.

Prop exhaust, transom exhaust or side exhaust doesn't matter. It happens prior to exit. I had TRS dry to the tip tails that would pull water back 2' when bore scoped. Had to keep idle up.

I wonder if extending the jacket down farther makes a difference? Thats a cool video.

You will definitely be pulling the engine again if you run that cam - hopefully just to change the cam. The original HP500 carb cam was 222/230 with a 110 LSA. That motor had well documented reversion issues. Merc redesigned (raised) the already long risers on the factory Gil manifolds and I don't think that even completely cured it. Think about how much more overlap you are going to have with a 246/246 110 LSA. Even if you go dry to the tip exhaust, I am pretty sure that combo will have pretty low boatabilty manners. There are quite a few proven cams for marine and I don't think that would be one of them.

Time to put my brain and welding skills to work then and create a water jacket out of stainless water jacket that runs the length of the exhaust with a separate exit out of the boat before I finish the build. if it's not easily feasible then I'll have to do some cam hunting. Creating the jacket is easy, creating the separate exit is more difficult.

Or just switch to a dry system, but the hull I have would need some modifications to fit it all.

or waterjacketed hose…like this may work. Would have to check temps of course.