Just me but even if you go dry to get rid of the water issues, that cam will be a DOG in the bottom end.

Let us know.
m

That cam is not feasible. You'll be rebuilding it - listen to what everyone else here is saying.

Second - get rid of the flat tappets - you'll be rebuilding it again. Spend the money now to do it right or spend upwards of triple to do it wrong.

Respectfully - TZ

tell me about the flat tappets please. Most failures I’m aware of are from crappy lubricants. If you use high end racing oil they’re fine. What am I missing here?

as for the cam being a dog, low end torque should be around 650ft lbs. now, I won’t know until dyno is done, but torque is what jumps you out of the water and HP keeps you going. I anticipate max HP curve between 4500-6000rpm. But I’ll put the build on hold till I confirm it all, and in the end if the dyno results don’t show it on paper for what I want. I have no issues tearing down and re-doing things. Engine building has become a hobby of mine that I enjoy.

Forgot to mention that the torque curve should be from ~2000-5000 rpm but falling around 4500. Most boating for me isn't at WOT, I'm pulling kids on tubes, wakeboards, ski's, and other water toys. If I'm wrong on the build I'll definitely post back and eat crow. The reversion I believe is going to be a given, but not insurmountable. That video above with the clear pipes shows reversion, but it's coming right out of the riser to a straight pipe. We will see how my exhaust handles it. I'll post pictures in my other thread here. After break in of the motor I'll pull the exhaust and exhaust manifold to look for reversion damage and if needed bore scope it. Time will tell.

Meant to reply to this when you asked, but forgot until I saw your other thread in the DIY section.

Flat tappets vs roller - it's a no-brainer really. Flat tappets have notorious problems with break-in. Even the best builders run into failures due to issues with the material - many will refuse to build engines with them (can't blame them either).There's nothing like having to redo something for twice or even three times the cost instead of simply doing it right in the first place (even if it costs extra up front). A good set of hydraulic roller lifters will cost twice what you have in a flat tappet cam and lift set, but it is money well spent. I mean, you've already spent the money for the machine work, rotating assembly, and decent heads - hamstringing it with a flat tappet cam just doesn't make sense.

I saw in the other thread that you have AFR heads. They look like Enforcers. I'd match the lift to support the flow capabilities of the head - .576 would be leaving some power on the table. Eric Weingartner did a review on those and they actually flow pretty well up into the .600-.700 lift range. A copy of the Merc 525 EFI cam would do well with this head - much better than the cam that you mentioned earlier (and it won't flood the engine with water).

Just my observation - I know you've already gotten the pushrods in so you may be past the point of changes. But if you can, I'd reconsider your choices here.

TZ