velvet drive shift problem
 

have a pair of 72C's that are on new builds. they worked fine when pulled but I notice that one shift lever moves smooth as silk but the other drags when you move it. feels like the shaft is dragging in the case. it is just in bushings or could the neutral switch be binding it up. have yet to pull the switch but wanted to see if any one had an idea before tearing into it.

When you say it feels like it's dragging are you shifting by hand or is it hooked to your shift cable? Is the drag in the cable? There isnt anything to really drag in the shift valve.

shifting by hand. no cable hooked up yet as they are not in the boat yet. took the lever off and pulled the detent ball to make sure nothing was binding but it feels like the shaft is galled a little. going to pull the neutral switch to see if something about it is the cause but from the diagram I agree there should not be any thing to drag

to look at the diagram and at the valve it seems that it should just slide out. it feels galled in the bore. got it about 1/4 out but had to put a screw driver against it force it. assuming that this is part of my problem.

Watch this video its very informative and detailed... might be able to fix your problem.

watched the video. his came apart real easy but told me for sure that it should just come out. had to force it but it finally came out. there was some scoring on the barrel that was binding it up. took it apart like the video showed and polished and cleaned the inner barrel and the outer of the barrel and what I could inside the bores and now she moves smooth as butter.

Great to hear!! Glad you got it figured out!!

Hate to mention this but mostly the only way the regulator & bore get scored is from debris in the transmission.
This sometimes happens after something has broken. How does the fluid smell? Wouldn't hurt to poke a magnet down through the dipstick tube and see if you get anything.

the were rebuilt about 10 hours ago and the fluid still looks new and had no metal or any thing in it so I wonder if during the rebuild they either missed that or there was still a little something in there that got to it. knowing the operator they may have just ignored that it was stiffer than the other one and ran it like that.

Can a remote filter be added? What would you recommend?

We have never tried it. In general the transmission doesn't make particles until something breaks.
I will say we use an Oberg filter on our transmission dyno.

stuck a magnet down in it and there are no chunks but a lot of very fine metallic sludge in the bottom so guess I will pull it apart. other one is so clean inside you could eat off it. so Marc, do you have a rebuild kit for these? if so what do I order it under
thanks

This is why im going to add a remote filter... my trans had all that crud in the bottom also. I have all the part Numbers on the clutch plates and steels... how much power are you running?

should be around 800 but going in a 30 Chris Cat so while a little heavy it will air out and the transmissions wont see the same kind of stress that a big vee bottom puts on one. the only question I have with a filter is if it would effect pressure to the cooler? the oberg filter is really just a screen so probably not much restriction, we ran them on the dry sump systems on the open class and unlimited engines. wonder if a filter like a oil filter would change the way the pressure relief in the valve would act. how much pressure goes to the cooler itself on these. in the manual it shows where to check the running pressure but that is not what dumps off to the cooler.