articfriends

iTrader: (1)

The motor that I changed the hydraulic lifters out at 100 hours during refreshen was a 1100 hp 540 , cam from memory was in the 250/260 duration area and .390/.400 ;lobe lift. I held this engine at times for 5, 10 minutes at 6300 rpms. Lifters looked and worked perfect still when I cycled them out, but I never been one to run a part until it fails and destroys everything/ruins your season. Back then new Morels were like 500$ a set and I would sell my used ones with full dsiclosure for half of what new cost. Valve train is a maintenance item, although there's a BIG difference between banging something with 13 lbs of boost at 6300 for extended periods with a aggressive HYD roller at around 500 lbs open vs turning something NA 5200, 5400 occasionally with much less aggressive cam and spring pressures. Fwiw using TD shaft rockers, Id never have need to remove valve covers in boat for any reason from refreshen until next refreshen.
As far as solid bushing lifters, Ive used the Isky red Zone solids in race engines (7000+ rpms/cams at 800/900 lift ect). A bushed lifter is definitely STILL a wear item. As far as a bushed lifter with Hydraulic plunger, I have NOT used them in anythiing.
As far as solid rollers in general, I NEVER use them in ANYTHING unless application warrants it, Since there ARE reliable hydraulic rollers, I would never consider a solid roller lifter with bearings in the wheel/axle any more reliable they a similar hyd roller in these mild sub 6000 rpm marine engines and most mild 1000 hp or less marine blower engine in a recreational boat

PQ290Enticer

So I have an update on the lifter noise situation. I don't see any visible damage so my thoughts are to go through all the valves and verify they are correct. I do need a little help first. I have an email into comp about the pre-load. I was thinking it was 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn past zero lash but saw that rollers are only 1/4 turn?? Any insight is appreciated.

Ryan00TJ

iTrader: (8)

Wow! After you adjust valve preload correctly. I would test fire and watch that rocker with valve cover off. Recheck preload. That's alot of play. Something's ****y as Bubbles would say.......

fbc25el

It looks from that picture the rocker arm is off center. What procedure are you using to adjust the valves?

articfriends

iTrader: (1)

So in your video you found THAT rocker that loose? IF so, hold a straight edge on poly lock acrossed other 4 or did you find the lock nut loose as in falling off? IF it was NOT loose and rockers that loose you got a lifter wheel failing or plunger collapse, pushrod tip ate off, etc

PQ290Enticer

I put a straight edge on them (4 exhaust nuts) and they all seam to be at the same level.

sutphen 30

are all the exhaust valve stems about he same,,is the rocker arm stud still tight.hoping its not a lifter or cam lobe problem.

PQ290Enticer

I didnt put a wrench on it yet but i couldn't move by hand.

getrdunn

iTrader: (7)

After taking the slop out confirm with a dial indicator or small ruler to confirm opening height. Really need a solid lifter to be precise but you’ll know with your hydraulics.

(Cam lobe) IMO

PQ290Enticer

I was wondering if that would work. If it doesn't then failed lifter correct? I will pull the push rod just to make sure its not ruined.